Since iOS does not support AptX I was curious what codec is used when I connect my iphone (12 pro) to my Stanmore.
Turns out it uses SBC. By any mean it is not the end of the world, tho now I'm wondering if I have a malfuctioning BT module.
I have a Stanmore II 1 day old, prior to this I have had a BOSE for 8 years with no bluetooth problems in house.
This speaker is a huge disappointment, loud crackling periodically, bluetooth constantly cutting off and on.
Speak to live chat, typical reset device advice, made no difference. In the end they recommend to return for refund-credit.
Never again will I buy a Marshall product, it goes back and I will buy another BOSE.
|(04:43:28)||Ken: Speaker links, open Spotify or YouTube, both same problem.|
|(04:44:08)||Vincent: Thanks for trying Ken. Does it cut off on and off?|
|(04:44:25)||Ken: Try to play, pause then Bluetooth connected cuts off, reconnects again after 2 seconds, then solid led.|
|(04:44:48)||Ken: No sound, just keeps cutting off again|
|(04:45:15)||Vincent: Understood. May I know where did you purchase the speaker? Is it from our official website?|
|(04:45:29)||Ken: Mediamarkt Vienna|
|(04:45:44)||Ken: An official outlet|
|(04:46:03)||Vincent: In that case, I would suggest returning it to the store for an exchange or refund, as it was a recent purchase.|
|(04:46:33)||Ken: Ok, yes I will do this. Thank you Vincent.|
|(04:46:49)||Vincent: You're most welcome Ken. Good luck and take care!|
A little less than a year ago we have purchased the Stanmore 2 wifi (with Google Assistant). A stunning beautifull speaker at a relatively high price. At this price one would expect the best quality.
Pretty much immediately we noticed that when using the speaker on wifi there is a crackling sounds that interupts the music every so often. At times this crackling sound can be rather loud and disturbing. We contacted marshall customer support on numerrous ocations.
After our first contact we got given some advice on how to solve the problem. This is what we were told:
- There may be other appliences near by that are causing the interferance
- Our music source may be running out of energy/power
- Our Wifi may not be strong enough
- Asked to try resetting the speaker to factory settings.
After having tried all of the above and moving the speaker all over the house, pluggin out all other appliences and plugging in the music source to the power the problem did not go away. We immediately contacted customer support again. Though they were friendly I found it strange that they actually just gave me the same message again, with no additional solutions. Almost as if my second message (where I explained what we have tried in detail) was not even read.
After a couple of attempts of getting through to customer support they finally responded with a more realistic solution; Returning the speaker. This is where I really got annoyed. I have explained in my mails that the crackling sound is not constant. In their response about me being able to return the speak for them to see what the problem is they were clear that should they find no problem that the postal costs (and all other additional costs) would be charged to me. Since the crackling sound is not constant, the chance is big that when they test it they may not hear the crackling at that moment and then blame and charge me.
All in all this is not what I would expect of a comapany with this reputation and price tag. Simply put this problem should not even exist. I have a couple of other speakers at home (Bluetooth, wifi) all working perfectly at a fraction of the price. Non of them have ' interferance issues', power Issues etc. A speaker at this price of the Stanmore should simply not have these problems to start with.
I believe Marshall should take responsibility for this problem and admit it is an issue with their speaker and not due to 'circumstances' at my house. There are enough complaints about this issue online to proof that the fault lies with the speaker.
Marshall please fix the problem and please replace my speaker.
I seem to be having the same issues that a lot of people have reported, where I cannot get the Marshall Gateway app to connect to my Code 25. I've only had the amp for about a week and I cannot get the app to see it. ?
I can connect to the amp via Bluetooth using my phone (Pixel 3a, Android 11) and whilst connected, can use it as a BT speaker to play music from Spotify. However, nothing I do seems to get the app to connect to the amplifier.
-I've updated the amp to the latest firmware using my laptop/web browser.
-I've followed all the instructions in the Bluetooth Connectivity Troubleshooter to the letter (CODE - Gateway Bluetooth Connection Troubleshooting - my.marshall.com)
No matter what I do, or what order I install/uninstall/connect, the app will not see the amplifier. Everything works otherwise - I'm able to apply Patches from ? using a USB connection - and the amp sounds great. I'd just like to be able to control it from my phone.
Hi, anyone can help? my Marshall Stanmore Bluetooth Speaker stop working. The red power light is on but no sound coming out, neither via the Bluetooth connection nor the input 1 and 2 with audio cable. I can still connect the speaker via Bluetooth but there are no sound coming out of the speaker. Any idea what's wrong? Please help!
I've been having a problem with JVM 205Combo.
During corona-lockdown, when we were not allowed to rehearse with the band, I had took my amp home with me....
As I'm always curious to find other sounds, I started experimenting with connecting other speaker cabs to my JVM. But, as I later discovered, the cable I used was no good and I think I blew up the main amplifier. I looked for the fuse, for it seemed logical to me that the fuse was blown, but couldn't find it. I also have a JCM 800 2205 head, a JMP MK2 2204 head and I've been having a JCM900 4100 head in the past. Now, all these amps were fused, so if anything went wrong, it was just the fuse that was blown. In fact, I've experienced that!
But no fuse on the JVM....is that correct? Because if it is, my problem is bigger than I thought. In that case, what was blown instead? The output transformer? My tubes?
I hope somebody can help me out on this one. And I promise never to experiment with other speakers or whatsoever.
I just bought a new Marshall DSL40CR last week, and when I have been playing on the low watt setting for about 30 mins, the volume drops in and out. I haven't experienced this on the high watt setting...yet. is there a recommended EQ or other setting configuration for the low watt setting to help with the issue of the volume dropping in and out? I have switched out cables, guitars, not using any effects or speaker cabinet either.
Just bought a Marshall emberton. I did connect the speaker to my iPhone (iOS 14.7.1). It starts playing but after 10 or 15 seconds it loses the connection and the bluetooth lighy on the speaker starts flashing.
Can you help me, please?
Hello, I recently ordered a used JCM800 Model 1580 Bass Cabinet. The seller's photos show it with one 18 inch Celestion G18Q-400 speaker. I've learned that they were made in the 1980s-90s, and came in mutliple speaker configurations. Mine is the 1x18. I'm assuming the cab originally came with the G18Q-400?
Would really love to know:
1. the performance specs of the G18Q speaker (Celestion.com didn't have any info)
2. whether the round port cut in the baffle of the cab is original.
See picture below. Thanks!
I just bought a used Lead 12 Combo (1987, I believe) which I am loving! but I'm experiencing an issue when listening through headphones which has me very confused.
If the 1/4" stereo TRS plug from the headphones (Shure SRH240) is fully inserted into the "H.P./Line Out" jack on the amp the internal speaker mutes but I only get audio from the right earphone. If I insert the plug only partway into the jack (to the first "detent") which seems to be a very popular suggestion online then I get sound from both left and right sides in the headphones but the internal speaker does not mute.
Any suggestions? And if it's an issue with the jack itself what kind of jack (Cliff? 6 prong? 4 prong? PCB or solder?) should I be looking for?
Any help MUCH appreciated, this is starting to make me crazy...thanks!
I have a Woburn II speaker and I've paired it to my HP Envy Laptop but I keep seeing a LOW BATTERY message. I see that the device is paired but cannot play via bluetooth because of LOW BATTERY. The speaker doesn't have a battery.
I have a few questions:
1. A DSL40CR or 100H has 5 output jacks 1x16, 1x8, 2x16, 1x4, 2x8.
Which output do you connect a 4x12 or 4x10 cab?
A friend has a 4x10 cab with 4 Fender V1030 30w 8 ohms speakers. I believe it comes from a Fender Hot Rod Deville. But I have researched and couldnt find an extension cab like this for a Hot Rod Deville online. It doent have a Fender logo plate on it or an info sticker on the back. It must be a clone someone built. Nevertheless it was built good. I opened the back and I didnt check how it was wired.
2. Can you run both speakers together, (4x12 or 2x12 cab with the 1x12 V type speaker it comes with?
3. And if so which outputs are the correct ones to connect.
Someone place help me I dont want fry my amp.
Woburn speaker wont play loud volume when connected via bluetooth, but sounds normal when connected via optical1.
first time poster, long time tech. having experience with marshall amps I am familiar with issues stemming from problematic circuit boards (i.e.-DSL/TSL etc ) however my experience regarding this model is limited. can't say I have ever been a fan of DSP. for me ,as a player/tech DSP is a deal breaker. like the dreaded nintendo game format red circle of death, once the DSP bites it you're done. I just seek a simple answer for my customer who bought one second hand,never re-tubed. amp lost power.sounds like a badly blown speaker (speakers test good). replaced output tubes and driver tube (original outputs tested badly). preamp tubes test good. supply voltages appear to be normal.overdrive channel LED switches from red to amber to slightly different amber but no green. clean channel button switches normal. red-orange-green.master volume button doesn't come on.sometimes if you perform factory reset all buttons function but sound is still terrible. nice clean signal going thru to pin 7 of V7. in between V7 and phase inverter something is haywire. my money is on the DSP board but not having a flow chart ??? tried to get a signal straight into the power amp but got nothing out. any input appreciated guys. one thing more...i get the 2 separate heater voltages. V6 is 12vdc but the other for the remaining tubes originating at the tranny, is that standard 6.3 ? didn't see it on the schematic.
I have two identical Marshall DSL 100 watt heads. One of them was starting to crackle when I turned up volume on either clean or distortion channels. It finally quit and assumed it was just dust in pod. However a week ago turned amp head on and neither green light for clean channel or red light for distortion channel were coming on and no sound at all from either channel coming coming through speaker cabinet. Trying to get some help on what could possibly be wrong causing me to lose sound from amp head. Thanks
I have the Marshall gateway app, a multieffects pedal, a interface Focusrite and a accustom guitar but I can’ get any sound out of the speaker! Help!!
I've just received y Emberton speaker. I'm testing it but it is not fast forwarding or rewinding any of the media I'm using (youtube/spotify/phone recorded videos). Did anyone experience the same?
Hey guys, I want to buy a really good Bluetooth speaker, and I was looking at the Marshall's Stockwell and Killburn models (the first models, the new ones are too expensive lol). Are they worth it? I've read that sound quality is amazing but at the same time, they're 2× the price of all the other portable speakers. Thanks in advance 👍 PS: I also really like the design, but that's not enough to pay double the price.
I noticed there is an emulated out on the back of the 20Watt Dsl head. From reading the .pdf manual, I understand that the head needs to stay connected to the speaker cabinet. So I know to never un-hook it, however - My questions being -
Do I need to be in Stand-By mode to actually use the headphones? If not, will the sound still come from the speaker cab?
Also, can I just plug my headphones directly into the Emulated Out? the .pdf manual says the Dsl20 Emulated Out supports Headphones. But I've seen people comment in other places that you need a headphone amp that increases volume or something. I haven't been able to test with headphones yet, and I kinda' wanna' get the right answer on this before I try. Thanks.
Loving the Amp and Speaker cab though haha. Just came in yestreday.
I have 3 combo amps each with a single 16 ohm speaker. baffles the heck out of me why Marshall would recommend a 2x12 8 ohm ext cabinet. I want to run both the internal speaker and the ext cabinet at the same time. I would like to put 8 ohm speakers in the combos to match the ext cabs. I have a JCM 2000 DSL 401, a DSL 40cr And an Origin 1x10 20 Watt. Can a16ohm speaker be upgraded with an 8 ohm speaker in these combos and if so what speakers would you recommend. Any additional suggestions or information is most welcome.