Hi there everyone, it's my first post here. I just acquired (2nd hand) Marshall VBA400 Bass head amplifier. It sounds really great but I just want to ask anyone from here has got the same experienced with an audible "humming sound" when the Standby Switch is turned ON... is it normal for this model? one more question, when i got the VBA400 it comes with Marshall MG412A speaker cabinet (4x12")... are they both match to use technically?
I have recently been given the above amp and before I connect it to a speaker and switch it on I am concerned to know the correct protocol for connecting a speaker cabinet(s). The speaker output sockets have no information directly next to them but a label elsewhere on the rear of the amp states "WARNING. Not to be used with speaker cabinets of less than 4 ohms"
My queries are:-
1. Is it safe (i.e. without risk of damage to the amp) to use just one speaker output as long as it is connected to a speaker cabinet of 4 ohms minimum impedance and appropriate wattage?
2. When using both speaker outputs can they both be connected to cabinets each of 4 ohms minimum impedance or are the outputs paralleled in which case would I need to work with two cabinets each of 8 ohms to arrive at a 4 ohms minimum impedance in total?
Apologies if the answer to this seems obvious but I have a little knowledge of these matters and while a little knowledge can be 'a dangerous thing' it can also lead you to be concerned (possibly unnecessarily) about getting things right!
Thanks in anticipation
I just purchased and plugged in my hundred-watt code amp head prepared to plug it into my full stack two 2 cabinets and it only has one speaker output Jack on the back I am confused befuddled perplexed and never heard of such a thing as specially for Marshall what do I do to run it to both cabinets can I use a splitter box I'm feeling like a snowflake somebody help? Lol
My MA 50C has an internal speaker that is at 16 ohms and the amp is wired for 8 ohms max. I have a 2x12 cab that is at 8 ohms that I can plug in - BUT (and this is the question): Can I leave the Internal speaker plugged into the amp (again, at 16 ohms) and STILL plug in my 2x12 cab (8 ohms) without doing damage or do I have to unplug the internal speaker before I plug the 2x12 in? By my math (and this is always very questionable), it should be able to handle it because it will not make the amp go lower than the 8 minimum to get the full 50 watts. I need another set of eyes/brain to confirm/refute. Thank you in advance!!!
Please can you (Marshall) tell me if the speaker in the CODE50 is a FRFR ("Full Range Flat Response") speaker???
Or is it an actual guitar cab. speaker (that may have been specifically voiced for the CODE50)???
Of course anybody else's comments would be appreciated.
Today I tried to play my Marshall code 50 and noticed that there is acutally no sound coming through.
I already changed the cable to make sure that the cable is alright.
I also noticed that there is no Headphone sound and the amp tuner is not working neither.
The speaker makes the normal light buzzing noise when turned on, so I assume that it is not about the speaker.
I did a firmware update just now, but I didn't help.
I really don't know what to do anymore. I barely played the amp and never transported it neither.
Why it is suddenly not working is a mystery to me.
If you have any advice please let me know.
If I want to plug my 100h into my PC via USB, does it still need a speaker load or can I use it without a cab connected?
I bought a CODE50 2 months ago, and while I really like the sound, it generates cracking/tearing/popping sounds when I apply (even small amounts of) overdrive when I touch a string with my pick/plectrum. I use the JCM800 emulation with low gain and low presence. I have also tried other AMPs such as the JVM. Plexi or Bluesbreaker, but that does not make any difference. It occurs with a BOSS Overdrive OS2 pedal and also with the ODR that is build in, also at low levels.
It happens both with my Fender Stratocaster and my Epiphone Les Paul. I also tried several diffenent plextrums, for example the Dunlop Jazz III, Dunlop Tortex, Fender medium, light and heavy and a few others, but that does not make any difference.
I opened the back of the combo so see if anything touches the speaker that could explain this sound but that was not the case. Normally I like a bit of pick attack sound, but this noise can be so loud that it overshadows the sound of the string, almost like a series of explosions. When I switch the overdrive off, this noise effect is gone.
What could be the reason for this ?
i have a code 100 combo amp. I like it so far, but....can i use an external speaker “and” the on board 2 x12’s too. If so, mines horked up (sorry that a very technical musical term) if not.......sup wit dat?
Quite a few people on various forums are concerned about the emulated out of our DSL20H and DSLCR amps. It seems that there is a set level for the emulated line out and headphones which can only be adjusted with either the guitar volume knob of gain channel knob. The channel volume does nothing to the line out/headphones only to the speaker output.
Is this normal behaviour? Where the gain knobs are the only controls on the amp that increases the loudness of headphone/line out.
I got dsl1cr today
If i want to record or practice with headphone without speaker sound
Is it possible disconnect speaker cable?
Is there internal dummy load in dsl1cr?
Ive read the manual for the jvm410h but dont fully get the outputs.
All i need to know if anyone can help it what out puts do i use on amp and cabs when i plug into my 1 1960a and when i use my 1960b too so half stack full stack.
I need idiots guide.
I've noticed that there is rattling/jangling coming from the amp (not the speaker) when playing notes between low A and C and their respective octaves above. It sounds like it is coming from the EL34 valves - is this due to the way that they are mounted without spring dampers? They have not gone microphonic as far as I can tell, and are otherwise performing as expected, so I feel this is more a mechanical issue with the chassis/mounting, or it's just an undesirable characteristic of the valves themselves. What I'd ideally like to know is, do all Origin 20Cs do this or is this the first anyone has heard about this?
I've removed every external variable there could be, moving the amp to another location and isolating it from floor vibrations in the studio. I've taken the 'amp' out of the cabinet so that I could lightly tap the valves, and check the screws around the supports are not loose. You can generate the rattle (or very similar) just by tapping lightly with the handle of a screwdriver, on both valves. This is what I was expecting if it was just physical vibrations from the speaker causing them to rattle in sypmathy. The rattling sound does not get amplified, so it's not in the audio path.
It's enough to be offputting when tracking/practicing in the studio unless pushing out really high volume so that you can only hear the guitar. I play fairly clean a lot of the time so it is more obvious under those conditions.
Would really appreciate some advice. If the answer is, "It's the same for all and there's not much that can be done..." then ok, I just need to know. That said, I spotted there was some sort of similar issue perhaps on Class 5 amps that a kit was developed for to resolve? I may have misunderstood though.
If there is any further mechanical troubleshooting to be done then please let me know. I wouldn't want to void the warranty status if possible. For what it's worth, I'm a systems and support engineer for a large format mixing console company, so I'm competent enough to poke around as required... just figured someone may have alreday solved this one before I carry on!
just received my DSL1HR now, and test it's functionality without an external cabinet (ordered but not arrived yet), so tested only with my headphones AKG K240 MKII. I noted that the volume is very low even with the volume knob at maximum level and switching the power 1W-0.1W I don't feel any difference, in both channel !
seems that only 0.1W is allowed when external speaker is disconnected. Is it broken or is it normal ? awaiting for a kind urgent fast responce please.
I got a doubt on well interpretating the manual where it states:
WARNING: When using the DSL1HR head
for ‘silent’ practice or DI recording ALWAYS
disconnect the speaker cabinet from the
amplifier’s rear panel before switching on.
NEVER unplug the speaker cable from the
speaker cabinet while it is still connected
to the amplifier rear panel. This may stress
the amplifier’s power-stage and in extreme
cases may lead to valve and/or transformer
can someone confirm what I understand: if I want to play using an headphone for silent practice (connecting my headphone to emulated line Out), I shall prior disconnect the external speaker from the rear of the amplifier (shouted off), (and never from the rear of the speaker cabinet). So I can Play the amplifier using headphone without connection to the cabinet? is that correct? An this is applicable also if I connect the amplifier to a mixer (by using Line out). That is quite strange because all other amplifiers recommend to never disconnect the speakers, with or without an headphone or something helse. Please help! I don't want do damage my DSL1HR. Thanks. Cheers.
Are there any downloads for user Manuals for
Marshall Valvestate 100w Model 8100.
Marshall 1936 lead 2 x 12 Speaker Cabinet
No response when I tirn on mu Stanmore speaker. No lights, no sound, nothing.
What can I do to fix it?
I listen to music through wifi/spotify on my Marshall Acton. The past few weeks I notice occasionally that it will turn on and play randomly. This sometimes happens very early or late at night at very loud volumes to the point where I've had to unplug the speaker when I'm asleep. I've now debugged the issue to an unknown bluetooth device connecting. I can see it is some kind of DESKTOP device (which I don't own); I see it pop up occasionally on the ios app as connected.
It must be a neighbor in my apartment complex either doing this on accident or pranking me (doesn't really matter). But I can't seem to stop it. I don't use bluetooth and have never connected to the speaker via bluetooth. Can I disable bluetooth or somehow reset it to stop the unknown device from connecting? I love the speaker otherwise but it's a huge hassle to have this issue.