Quick 4 part question: A) can I use the USB to get a line level signal into my PC that my digital interface will push to my powered monitors?
B) when using USB is the cabinet speaker muted?
C) must my DAW be open to make this work?
D) in this USB mode, can the CODE 100 be operated without speakers connected?
Have a few questions about attenuator usage with SC20H amp.
1. Do I need two attenuators? My cabinet has two speakers (8 Ohm each), and SC20H has two separate outputs for each speaker, so does it mean I have to buy two attenuators, one for each speaker? I didn't manage to find SC20H schematics, so I'm not sure if those two amp outputs are connected in parallel internally, and I can just use one attenuator.
2. Do I need attenuator(s) at all? I want to run the amp with overdriven tubes, thus I have to set max level, right? Consultant at my local store told me it's enough to reduce "Master" volume, and EL34 will still be overdriven, if I set "Pre-amp" volume to max. But folks at Marshall forum say that it's still better to use attenuator, even in 5W mode. Again, I don't have SC20H schematic, so it's hard to tell who is right.
3. What if my cabinet only have one 4 Ohm input (2 x 8 Ohm speakers inside)? Is it enough to connect it to the amp with only one cable? Or I have to rework my cabinet to have two different inputs (separate input for each speaker)?
I really don't like the speaker on the Code 25 combo and my plan is to build an extension cab with a 1 x 12" (potentially a Celestion G12M Greenback rated at 25 watts and 8 ohms). I am aware of the power / volume drop this will cause and I'm happy with it. The easy way to achieve this is to disconnect the wires from the speaker and wire them to an extension jack for use with the extension cab. But I wanted to know has anyone done this in such a way to keep the original speaker active when the extension isn't in use, but defeated when the extension cab jack is plugged in? That way the Code works as a combo still for home use, but I could keep the extension cab permanently at the rehearsal space. Thanks for any thoughts.
4 days ago, it all started with my Woburn speaker losing power from time to time (I think it turned off and on for at least 5-6 times within 3 hours or so). Then for two days, no matter to which outlet I connected the Woburn to, it did not turn on. All lights were out and I could not connect to it.
Then for some reason, the Woburn turns on again now (red Bluetooth light is on) and I can connect to it via bluetooth, but there is no sound. It is just dead silent.
Any ideas what could be the issue? I read a lot about issues with the fuse, could that be it? If yes, I would try to repair it myself. I would be very happy about any tipps.
How do I switch off the voice on my new Marshall speaker ?, it is doing my head in and I don't want it or need it.
As per title, Code 50 speaker suddently stopped outputting any sort of sound. Swapped out guitar leads and done factory reset to no avail. I can use it through headphones. Help!
Hi, I just want to make sure I've got this straight. I want to run my amp through my external attenuator(weber mini mass) and then into an 8 ohm external cabinet.
1a) Amp (8 ohm out)->attenuator(set for 8 0hms)->to external cabinet(1x12 with 8 ohm speaker) Is this correct?
1b) In the above scenario, if I want to run through the 8 ohm cab alone do I have to disconnect the onboard 16 ohm speaker?
2) If the external attenuator is not connected, can I run the amp through the 16 ohm combo speaker and the 8 ohm ext cab at the same time? Or is it either/or?
My Stanmore 2 recently stopped being able to connect to Spotify using the Spotify Connect feature.
I have done a factory reset and tried reconnecting to the internet again.
I tested the Alexa functions and those work, such as asking for the time and weather updates and they are fine, so its just the Spotify Connect.
The Marshall speaker shows up on the list of devices on the Spotify App that I can connect to but it just stays on "Connecting..." when selected.
I can connect fine to my PC and Echo device via Spotify Connect.
Hello! Could I link the DI out of ori50h with an active speaker? Thanks
I was wondering if I could plug in a two notes torpedo cab m into the 8 ohm speaker out jack of my Marshall Origin 20c without plugging it into the speaker as well? Would I need to put a dummy plug into the DI out to activate the built in load dummy load? Would the dummy load work without the dummy plug in the DI out? Can I even use the 8 ohm speaker out jack without a load on whatever I have plugged into it even with the DI out plugged into something? The two notes cab m does not have a dummy load built in and on normal amps would have to be plugged back into a speaker or a load box for the load and sound would still come out of the speaker.I'm wanting to use the two notes cab m so I can tweek cab imulations, record and use headphones all while still using my amp without disturbing anyone. I know I could just use the DI out, but I've read it alresady has cob imulation on it and I would like to tweek my own.
I am a recent ower of a Marshall Origin 20, which I got in July. I've really enjoyed the amp until I plugged in last night and got out absolutely no sound out of it. I couldn't figure out why, as nothing as happened to it and it worked fine two days ago. I took it apart to do some trouble shooting and found that when I have all the knobs max'd and output on 20 watts, I can hear a whisper of my guitar signal (nicely saturated, presumably by the preamp tubes) through the speaker. This sound is affected by all of the knobs. However, if I plug my guitar directly into the return of the effects loop, and activate the effects loop I get no sound whatsoever; no guitar, no hum, nothing. Because of this, I'm sure my speaker is not the problem. These things led me to think it was a power amp section issue, so I went down and purchased a new set of matched EL34's, threw them in there, and nothing changed. I'd really like to know if there's anything I can do to fix this, because this amp is not even a year old and I should not be having these kinds of problems with completely normal bedroom use.
I am looking for a more low ended sound than the provided 12 inch speaker cone and would like to try a 15 inch speaker cone. is it possible to do this with minimal or no modifications to the build of the amp?
Just bought a brand new Code 25 amp that was delivered by courier. It sounds great in play but there is a relatively loud constant hum from the speaker from about 5 seconds after switch on. Even with no guitar attached. is this normal?
Also something is rattling inside when I tilt the cabinet side to side. I'm worried it may have been damaged in transit. Maybe these two issues are related?
Anyone have any thoughts or advice. Not sure I can face sending it back to the seller as although I bought it off a .co.uk website it actually shipped from Poland.
after some time (months or weeks, I don't no) my Stanmore speaker plays from iPhone X very quietly. My iPhone is on maximum volume and Stanmore too. But my friends' devices play well. My iPhone plays well on other devices. Where is the problem? I can't find the solution.
I've noticed the outputs 2 & 3 differ, while the specifications on the speakers but the back of the cab (ORI212A) says x2 8ohms. Should I use the 16ohm output? And if not, which of the ohm outputs on the Origin 20H is the ideal one? The 16 ohm, the 8ohm or the 16x2 one?
People here have talked about a "mushy" sound on these amps. It happened to me, at some point, with my DSL 20 head. Fortunately, I also have a DSL20 combo. So I hooked up the combo to the pedalboard and the cab. Unplugged the amp's speaker, and the difference was night and day. I also had a DSL100H, I kept for a friend, same problem. I told him it needed serviced, he didn't listen. I just got done playing one, that was working correctly, at a Guitar Center. It was aggressive, and brutal, the way it should be! Consistent and tight.
What I found on a forum, and what I suspected, was a small capacitor, in the preamp had failed, in C21,C22, position, if I remember correctly. Sorry, but these are made in Vietnam...And that's what you get...Instead of sending my tech guy on a fishing expedition, I'll dump it off somewhere...Maybe, I will get the old JMP I always wanted... DON'T EXPECT THESE AMPS TO LAST, BECAUSE THEY WON'T!
I have an amplifier Code 25,
Tried to find any specification of the installed speaker Y1025J - 02.
The main question for me is:
1) Is the Code25 has the full-range (20-20000Hz)frequency speaker or it a guitar speaker (70-7000Hz)?
2) Can I replace the installed speaker with full-range frequencies (20-20 000Hz) speaker or only the option is do the replacement with specific (I meant for the guitars only) guitar speaker?
I see that is 25w 4ohm speaker, but nothing else to find equivalent for upgrade.
My thoughts are about any speakers, becouse the Code is modeling amplifier and probably the amplifier must produced all frequencies becouse of it. That why I am looking about extra spec information of Code processor working with all audio frequencies and send it to speaker or speaker must be specific as a guutar speaker and cut some unneeded frequencies on speaker level.
Hi, I am trying to find out any more about my JTM45 amp. I have owned this for over 45 years, i have never made any changes to it.
Something that always puzzled me is the lack of any serial number on the rear panel. I cant see why anyone would have made a new chassis, but there are extra unused holes and i can make out where someone has scratched on the type of valves in each position. I am assuming its probably late 1963 as it doesnt have the 'coffin' lable but is a two tone cabinet as per the early kind. Also the knobs are different to others i have seen.
Also i can find no record of the model of speaker cabinet that i assume is also a Marshall cabinet, 2 x 12" speakers. Sadly the original Celestion speakers are long gone (my fault!) I have seen one reference to an extension cabinet or boutique cabinet that looked similar, how ever it looks like the Marshall badge was at an angle on mine, though it was missing when I bought the cabinet.
Any help for the above would be great, many thanks, Martin
I just unpacked my two brand new Stanmore 2 (Voice) speakers.
I am using an IPhone XS max on IOS 13.6
I successfully connected them to Google Home and can use this app to play music.
I successfully connected them as generic Bluetooth devices and can use them individually for Bluetooth audio.
BUT I cannot get Marshall's own IPS apps to recognise them!
Marshall "Bluetooth" doesn't recognise their existence when they are switched as Bluetooth input, neither does Marshall "Multi Room" when they are switched as WiFi input.
So Marshall's own apps are a FAIL
Apparently I need the app to be able to "Couple" them as a stereo pair, which was the reason I purchased two speakers!
Anyone else having a similar problem?
I did notice on the Apple app store a comment from a downloader who had experienced the exact same problem, so clearly this is a known issue for Marshall.
I have reported this to Marshall support but I have no experience of them so I don't know how responsive they are?
Hi Marshall team,
I want to use DI OUT of my ORI20H, but my question is:
DI OUT is the signal coming from just the preamp....or is the signal coming from preamp + power amp (so the one that goes to the speaker)??
Please let me know, thanks!