Bought a new DSL40CR in December of 2020 and last month it blew the 630 MA fuse on the PCB. Replaced fuse and swapped out all tubes. Now amp only works on 40 watt but has a lot less volume and does not sound like it did. The PCB has spots around CAPS that look burnt. Any suggestions? Can you purchase the PCB?
Dealer where I purchased not very helpful when I went to them to question about warranty, they kept trying to sell me a new amp, not Marshall and said I would have to pay any and all costs if it was repairable.
Really liked the amp when working correctly but am concerned that this would happen again if I purchase another one. 1 year and 3 months and total failure????
Marshall has restored my confidence in their product. They contacted me same day and gave me a list of where to take my amp for warranty repairs. The amp has 3 year parts/5 year labor warranty. Will update again when repairs are complete.
I purchased a second DSL40cr amp and got my originalback from the shop. Took my repaired amp home before Memorial Day Holiday and so far it is doing great.
Again want to thank the people at Marshall for making this happen once I explained the problem.
Hi everyone. I have seen 2 rig rundown videos where the artists tech's (Eric Clapton and Carlos Santana) say they dial back their volume knobs on their guitars (prs & stray) to get a clean tone and crank it to get distortion and sustain. I have a code which I have only been playing in my apartment so not to loud. I haven't been able to replicate this kind of technique. I have my code set to plexi through 100 watt Marshall. I'm playing a epiphone sg. Not an expensive one. So my question is what exactly is the hang up? Is it because it's not a tube amp? Is it because the pots or pickups in my sg are not super high level? Is it because I have to keep the volume down in my apartment? Is it all of these things? I'm asking because I'm considering changing the pots and or pickups but I wanted to run this by you guys and get your opinions.
This is my first Marshall set up, I have an Origin 20 Head connected to a origin 2x12 cab, when I power it up it makes a loud buzzing sound for 5 seconds or so, I assume it's warming up., I have had tube amps like the Peavey Valve King, however it didnt make such a sound on power up. Is this normal?
Hi, is there any technical documentation about valves replacement and bias setting?
I own a JCM 2000 DSL 401 and I need information before replacing valves (pairing, model, usage, bias setting).
Could EL84 tubes be substituted in place of the EL34s if need be? EL34s are becoming less available.
Hello all. I am sorry for what is about to be a redudant and maybe to some, stupid question. I just got my dream amp, the JVM 410h. This is also my first tube amp and I want to care for it for long term use. For silent recording, I am running the line out with an xlr cable from my JVM head to my Scarlett interface, which I connect to my DAW and use cab modelling their for recroding. Do I lieave my standby switch on or off? The STANDBY/ silent recording notation is a little confusing to me. So should switch be pushed up or down? Also, should master volume be set to 0? Thanks in advance
I am the proud owner of a Marshall DSL100HR which I think is really great.
I also bought the Footswitch PEDL-91016, to be able to use all the versatility of the amp.
Unfortunately when I use the PEDL-91016 after a while (it varies). Impossible to use the effects loop, the sound changes it looks like a tube is dead, the different channels with the PEDL-91016 are no longer available (it varies).
When I remove the PEDL-91016 I no longer have any problem. When I use the footswitch supplied with the amp, I have no problem and obviously without any footswitch no problem either.
Do you think it's from PEDL-91016, it's still under warranty.
Thanks in advance.
Hello, I am making a big purchase for my first tube amp and amp between the Marshall JVM 410 head and combo versions. So, obviously, the head offers more flexibility in terms of cabinet selection etc. However, the 410 combo also has a line out so that too can be paired with any cabinet if I am not mistaken. If that is the case, why don't more people gravitate towards the combo? Is there anything that the 410H can do that the 410C cannot? All feedback is greatly appreciated.
I recently bought a used DSL40CR, so far so good.
I play a guitar with EMG 81 setup that works normally perfectly and got no issues with another amp.
When I play in clean channel (grean), pot setting about 1/3, the amp gives to much distortion, it almost souns like clean channel red.
Guitar is in very conditions, best mechanical setup and the electronics has been checked as well.
All tubes of the amp are new and BIAS setting adjusted to 35mV.
I don't know what else to check, could it be a grounding issue?
The amp has a very low noise what I assume is absolutely normal.
I can't play clean with this seup.
Anyone an idea what can cause this issue?
If I need to replace the stock preamp tubes in the Origin 20 H, what is the exact model.
It show ECC83H and I think they are Shuguangs but not sure. They used to be Marshall branded Shuguangs or JJ but these have nothing written on it except ECC83H. Looks chinese but they sound best I think to nail that JCM-Plexi tone of the Origin. I tried other and it is a slightly different sound. I need to know the exact model.
I would appreciate any support you can give me.
I recently purchased a DSL20CR; when I received it, I heard a strange buzzing sound in the studio, which the other Marshalls did not have,
I contacted the local Marshall dealer. He told me that it is a common issue, and other similar models had the same behaviour. Still, customers report that regular activity will work itself out until it disappears, in other words, with regular use.
And although it sounded strange to me, on the supplier's website, a customer reported this, I contacted him, and he told me that one day the noise stopped.
Well, today has been several months, and the humming continues,
It starts at 46 dB, but with increasing volume and gain, it reaches 90 dB without any instrument connected, only the power socket.
I have tested it in several places and with regulated electrical outlets, even with filters and signal stabilisation with an inverter. The power supply is optimal, but it has the same behaviour.
I asked the supplier's technician to check it, and then the report says that there is nothing abnormal, that according to him, all the components are correct, and there is nothing that generates problems for its use.
So the supplier tells me that they offer no warranty and no replacement and that this is normal for this amplifier.
I decided to replace all the tube tubes with new ones with the exact specifications.
I bought the Tung-Sol kit and another JJ for this amp, both for power gain and preamp.
After the change and tried both options, it continued with the same sound, noise; in a previous mail to Marshall, I asked to confirm if this amp needed to do any BIAS process; well, the answer is no; it is not necessary. Still, I compared the tubes before and after, and they had a similar value. at 10W, they gave 24 mA, and at 20 W, about 57mA
I know there are similar problems, and I have read in forums about component changes to solve the problem. Still, those forums also refer to issues with the emulator output, but this is working correctly in my case.
What can you recommend, is there anything I can do to fix it?
I appreciate any help you can provide.
Hi I have an Origin 50 head and I want to know what tubes for v1,v2,v3 should I purchase for replacement. Also there is any specific order to place them in.
Hi there. There is a very audible metallic ringing coming from what most likely sounds like the tubes when the gain or master volume is turned up to a usable level on any power setting. There is also a high-pitched scratching type buzzing (not 60hz or ground buzz) at higher master volume levels even with the tilt, presence, and treble turned all the way down. It sounds exactly like the problem user Chris Holtmier asked about in his question on Dec 27, 2018. It is brand new shipped, and I noticed this immediately out of the box just 30 mins ago. I have tried other speakers, guitars, guitar cables, position in the room on the floor and tightened all the screws as well as re-seating the tubes. It's probable that the tubes are microphonic after shipping but because of the way it is built, I cant reach the tubes to do the tap test when its plugged in. Although the response to the previous question in mention was stated as "We have not come across a rattle on the Origin 50 Combo" it seems that this is a recurring problem with a few of them as he was referring to a post on another forum about the same kind of noise on an Origin 5 as well.
I guess my question is, why doesn't this work properly brand new and is there anything besides a re-tube that you can suggest to fix the problem without returning it? I can post a sound file if needed. I usually re-tube with JJs anyways (which I suspect would fix the problem) but for now its actually cheaper to drive a 6 hour round-trip on a weekday to a GC than a $100 re-tube that possibly still might not fix the issue.
Other than that, I do really like the amp. I can tell that I would really enjoy it without the noise. I enjoy the effects loop, line out, gain boost, the tilt knob, and especially the vintage styling. It reminds me of a bluesbreaker. I dont play anything other than lower-wattage cathode-biased 6L6 or EL34 and I love pushing them to the max. With a Rat going straight in I had a lot of fun with it before I noticed the noises again. I'm willing to admit its just a random lemon but maybe it's just from UPS handling and tubes being the way they are. I am going to play it side-by-side with the same model and check that theory. If its just the tubes I will def get the same amp again.
What are the best EL34 tubes to use to lower overheating problems in the JTM60 head? And what is the recommended bias voltage setting also.
I've been having a problem with JVM 205Combo.
During corona-lockdown, when we were not allowed to rehearse with the band, I had took my amp home with me....
As I'm always curious to find other sounds, I started experimenting with connecting other speaker cabs to my JVM. But, as I later discovered, the cable I used was no good and I think I blew up the main amplifier. I looked for the fuse, for it seemed logical to me that the fuse was blown, but couldn't find it. I also have a JCM 800 2205 head, a JMP MK2 2204 head and I've been having a JCM900 4100 head in the past. Now, all these amps were fused, so if anything went wrong, it was just the fuse that was blown. In fact, I've experienced that!
But no fuse on the JVM....is that correct? Because if it is, my problem is bigger than I thought. In that case, what was blown instead? The output transformer? My tubes?
I hope somebody can help me out on this one. And I promise never to experiment with other speakers or whatsoever.
Hello, New amp I procured and I am hoping to get some Q's answered regarding.
It did not come with a footswitch and being new to all of this I do not know why I need one or which footswitch to get ????
Also, I was told by the original owner that it is quite than it used to be and may need a new tube. Also do not know which way to go with this ...
Last point is when switching over from clean to overdrive it is buzzing and I am not sure why...
After hours on youtube and reading the instruction manual I am even more confused.
Thanks in advance for comments/advice.
I ordered a DSL40CR in January and it was amazing but in April it just stopped working. Sent it back to get fixed but it was deemed beyond repair and they sent a brand new one and it arrived in June. After a few weeks the new amps' volume would fluctuate after maybe 3-4 hours of playing. Got in touch with the shop I bought it from and described the problem, they said it was most likely the tubes so they sent two new ones. After replacing both tubes the volume still fluctuates after it's been played for a few hours.
Can I use Tung Sol EL34B tubes in my Origin 20H amplifier to replace the stock EL34 tubes ?
first time poster, long time tech. having experience with marshall amps I am familiar with issues stemming from problematic circuit boards (i.e.-DSL/TSL etc ) however my experience regarding this model is limited. can't say I have ever been a fan of DSP. for me ,as a player/tech DSP is a deal breaker. like the dreaded nintendo game format red circle of death, once the DSP bites it you're done. I just seek a simple answer for my customer who bought one second hand,never re-tubed. amp lost power.sounds like a badly blown speaker (speakers test good). replaced output tubes and driver tube (original outputs tested badly). preamp tubes test good. supply voltages appear to be normal.overdrive channel LED switches from red to amber to slightly different amber but no green. clean channel button switches normal. red-orange-green.master volume button doesn't come on.sometimes if you perform factory reset all buttons function but sound is still terrible. nice clean signal going thru to pin 7 of V7. in between V7 and phase inverter something is haywire. my money is on the DSP board but not having a flow chart ??? tried to get a signal straight into the power amp but got nothing out. any input appreciated guys. one thing more...i get the 2 separate heater voltages. V6 is 12vdc but the other for the remaining tubes originating at the tranny, is that standard 6.3 ? didn't see it on the schematic.
So, my Marshall JVM 410c lately started making minor crackling sounds before creating a huge pop sound, and the level would be reduced until I changed the channel. This was concerning enough, and I had intended to have it checked out at my local shop, but then it began to hum and then produced the same pop sound last night. Even when I change the channel, no sound comes out now. Is there anyone who knows what's causing this? I'm not familiar with tube amplifiers, so I'm assuming this just means I need to replace a tube rather than the entire unit.
? ? ?