I would appreciate any support you can give me.
I recently purchased a DSL20CR; when I received it, I heard a strange buzzing sound in the studio, which the other Marshalls did not have,
I contacted the local Marshall dealer. He told me that it is a common issue, and other similar models had the same behaviour. Still, customers report that regular activity will work itself out until it disappears, in other words, with regular use.
And although it sounded strange to me, on the supplier's website, a customer reported this, I contacted him, and he told me that one day the noise stopped.
Well, today has been several months, and the humming continues,
It starts at 46 dB, but with increasing volume and gain, it reaches 90 dB without any instrument connected, only the power socket.
I have tested it in several places and with regulated electrical outlets, even with filters and signal stabilisation with an inverter. The power supply is optimal, but it has the same behaviour.
I asked the supplier's technician to check it, and then the report says that there is nothing abnormal, that according to him, all the components are correct, and there is nothing that generates problems for its use.
So the supplier tells me that they offer no warranty and no replacement and that this is normal for this amplifier.
I decided to replace all the tube tubes with new ones with the exact specifications.
I bought the Tung-Sol kit and another JJ for this amp, both for power gain and preamp.
After the change and tried both options, it continued with the same sound, noise; in a previous mail to Marshall, I asked to confirm if this amp needed to do any BIAS process; well, the answer is no; it is not necessary. Still, I compared the tubes before and after, and they had a similar value. at 10W, they gave 24 mA, and at 20 W, about 57mA
I know there are similar problems, and I have read in forums about component changes to solve the problem. Still, those forums also refer to issues with the emulator output, but this is working correctly in my case.
What can you recommend, is there anything I can do to fix it?
I appreciate any help you can provide.
Hi I have an Origin 50 head and I want to know what tubes for v1,v2,v3 should I purchase for replacement. Also there is any specific order to place them in.
Hi there. There is a very audible metallic ringing coming from what most likely sounds like the tubes when the gain or master volume is turned up to a usable level on any power setting. There is also a high-pitched scratching type buzzing (not 60hz or ground buzz) at higher master volume levels even with the tilt, presence, and treble turned all the way down. It sounds exactly like the problem user Chris Holtmier asked about in his question on Dec 27, 2018. It is brand new shipped, and I noticed this immediately out of the box just 30 mins ago. I have tried other speakers, guitars, guitar cables, position in the room on the floor and tightened all the screws as well as re-seating the tubes. It's probable that the tubes are microphonic after shipping but because of the way it is built, I cant reach the tubes to do the tap test when its plugged in. Although the response to the previous question in mention was stated as "We have not come across a rattle on the Origin 50 Combo" it seems that this is a recurring problem with a few of them as he was referring to a post on another forum about the same kind of noise on an Origin 5 as well.
I guess my question is, why doesn't this work properly brand new and is there anything besides a re-tube that you can suggest to fix the problem without returning it? I can post a sound file if needed. I usually re-tube with JJs anyways (which I suspect would fix the problem) but for now its actually cheaper to drive a 6 hour round-trip on a weekday to a GC than a $100 re-tube that possibly still might not fix the issue.
Other than that, I do really like the amp. I can tell that I would really enjoy it without the noise. I enjoy the effects loop, line out, gain boost, the tilt knob, and especially the vintage styling. It reminds me of a bluesbreaker. I dont play anything other than lower-wattage cathode-biased 6L6 or EL34 and I love pushing them to the max. With a Rat going straight in I had a lot of fun with it before I noticed the noises again. I'm willing to admit its just a random lemon but maybe it's just from UPS handling and tubes being the way they are. I am going to play it side-by-side with the same model and check that theory. If its just the tubes I will def get the same amp again.
What are the best EL34 tubes to use to lower overheating problems in the JTM60 head? And what is the recommended bias voltage setting also.
I've been having a problem with JVM 205Combo.
During corona-lockdown, when we were not allowed to rehearse with the band, I had took my amp home with me....
As I'm always curious to find other sounds, I started experimenting with connecting other speaker cabs to my JVM. But, as I later discovered, the cable I used was no good and I think I blew up the main amplifier. I looked for the fuse, for it seemed logical to me that the fuse was blown, but couldn't find it. I also have a JCM 800 2205 head, a JMP MK2 2204 head and I've been having a JCM900 4100 head in the past. Now, all these amps were fused, so if anything went wrong, it was just the fuse that was blown. In fact, I've experienced that!
But no fuse on the JVM....is that correct? Because if it is, my problem is bigger than I thought. In that case, what was blown instead? The output transformer? My tubes?
I hope somebody can help me out on this one. And I promise never to experiment with other speakers or whatsoever.
Hello, New amp I procured and I am hoping to get some Q's answered regarding.
It did not come with a footswitch and being new to all of this I do not know why I need one or which footswitch to get ????
Also, I was told by the original owner that it is quite than it used to be and may need a new tube. Also do not know which way to go with this ...
Last point is when switching over from clean to overdrive it is buzzing and I am not sure why...
After hours on youtube and reading the instruction manual I am even more confused.
Thanks in advance for comments/advice.
I ordered a DSL40CR in January and it was amazing but in April it just stopped working. Sent it back to get fixed but it was deemed beyond repair and they sent a brand new one and it arrived in June. After a few weeks the new amps' volume would fluctuate after maybe 3-4 hours of playing. Got in touch with the shop I bought it from and described the problem, they said it was most likely the tubes so they sent two new ones. After replacing both tubes the volume still fluctuates after it's been played for a few hours.
Can I use Tung Sol EL34B tubes in my Origin 20H amplifier to replace the stock EL34 tubes ?
first time poster, long time tech. having experience with marshall amps I am familiar with issues stemming from problematic circuit boards (i.e.-DSL/TSL etc ) however my experience regarding this model is limited. can't say I have ever been a fan of DSP. for me ,as a player/tech DSP is a deal breaker. like the dreaded nintendo game format red circle of death, once the DSP bites it you're done. I just seek a simple answer for my customer who bought one second hand,never re-tubed. amp lost power.sounds like a badly blown speaker (speakers test good). replaced output tubes and driver tube (original outputs tested badly). preamp tubes test good. supply voltages appear to be normal.overdrive channel LED switches from red to amber to slightly different amber but no green. clean channel button switches normal. red-orange-green.master volume button doesn't come on.sometimes if you perform factory reset all buttons function but sound is still terrible. nice clean signal going thru to pin 7 of V7. in between V7 and phase inverter something is haywire. my money is on the DSP board but not having a flow chart ??? tried to get a signal straight into the power amp but got nothing out. any input appreciated guys. one thing more...i get the 2 separate heater voltages. V6 is 12vdc but the other for the remaining tubes originating at the tranny, is that standard 6.3 ? didn't see it on the schematic.
So, my Marshall JVM 410c lately started making minor crackling sounds before creating a huge pop sound, and the level would be reduced until I changed the channel. This was concerning enough, and I had intended to have it checked out at my local shop, but then it began to hum and then produced the same pop sound last night. Even when I change the channel, no sound comes out now. Is there anyone who knows what's causing this? I'm not familiar with tube amplifiers, so I'm assuming this just means I need to replace a tube rather than the entire unit.
? ? ?
I read the post about the TSL 602 BIAS at this forum link:
should I change the two standard EL34s, and mount EL34EHs, the BIAS value is always 80mV for this model even when changing tube brands, or is this value valid only by replacing the two EL34s with the same brand?
Ok. A couple questions I'm sure can be answered here.
I just bought the DSL40CR less than a week ago. It's awesome for something smaller. Great at home amp.
However, the first clean channel is very low on volume, while if i switch to the other clean its 3 times as loud or more. Is something wrong here? One clean channel can be cranked to max volume which would be the equivalent of the other clean channel at maybe a 2.
Second question, I'm hearing a lot of talk of people swapping out the speakers in these amps. Is this always recommended?
Third question, I desire more reverb. Is getting a pedal the answer, or another Marshall amp altogether? Would a JVM be any better in the reverb category?
Fourth question, would getting different tubes change any of the previous concerns? Would getting different tubes make the amp better?
Im new to valve amps, and I'm struggling to answer all these questions.
I've got an Origin 5C, about 6 months old. Has worked fine and is a fun little amp. But last night I had my first issue.
Got the rig set up, with front-end fx, and also some fx in the loop. Warmed it up, then played a few bars in low power. All worked fine, so I switched to full power, and stepped away for a few minutes to let it warm up some more.
When I came back, it was still powered on (light and mild hum), but the footswitch was dead and there was zero volume. Not even cable crackle when plugging and unplugging the guitar.
I messed around with all the connections. Pulled everything and plugged in directly (also checked the instrument cable). So, guitar > cable > amp. Still no volume, and just a slight hum (very slight; it wasn't ampliyfing anything, so this was just circuit hum).
I dissambled the the thing, to check tubes and connections. Everything looked grand.
Reassembled it, and it worked fine. Played for a good 10 or 15 minutes at medium volume, and it was a charm.
But then the volume started dropping. Would come in and out. Then it dropped completely, and the footswitch went dark again.
I tried connecting an external preamp into the return (with a dummy plug in the send), but no luck. Footswitch was still dark.
Hum but no volume.
Haven't tried it yet today, but I'm expecting the same behaviour. My assumption is that there is something that goes sideways when the temperature gets up.
So, two questions:
1 - Is this a power tube issue? I haven't noticed any other problems or symptoms of bad tubes. And, like I said, it's 6 months old. Never gigged, but played loud fairly often.
2 - What's up with the footswitch? I can't find any schematics of the Origin series, and I don't care to go tracing. So, I'm not sure exactly where the FS fits into the circuit. I was wondering if that symptom might help to diagnose.
Anyway, a great little amp, but it's acting up!
Has anybody had or heard of this issue?
I have a Marshall Origin 50H, its about 7 months old and I've used it perhaps maybe 10 times total for some pretty low volume playing and never used on anything but the lowest 5w setting. I'm using it with a proper 16 ohm Celestion cabinet and proper cables and playing for about 40yrs so know what I'm doing, well, most days that is lol! :)
Anywho, after about 10 minutes the volume drops WAY off and I'm assuming its a power tube since the level of gain doesn't change at all, just the volume and it gets real compressed.
Since I've only had the amp 7 months, would the tubes be covered under warranty in any way? I would hope so due to how little I've used it, thanks for any insight.
I recently found a JCM900 4500 series hi-gain dual reverb in mint condition. The serial is Y38091---I know that it was made in 1990, I was just curious past the "Y" what the remaining five digits might pertain to? I was really just intrigued by reading the history of these and was wondering if mine is one of the first few produced and if it would be possible to find out what tubes and components were used on this one. Also, is it possible to get a copy of the original manual?
Thanks for any and all help! I love my 900.
hi , can I swap out the ecc83 preamp tube in V1 for a ecc81 in a SC20H? I’m just trying to lower gain to a much cleaner sound - preferably to the origin clean .
Any suggestions - outside of “ buy an Origin “ ;)
p.s REISSUE THE JMD:1 heads !
Hi. I'm having a problem with my DSL5CR. When plugged direct into the amp and switched to the Classic gain channel it works perfectly. However, when switched to the Ultra gain channel, the guitar is very faint and what can be heard is a weak-fuzzy sound. When I first noticed the problem, I thought it was a case of the tubes needing to warm up, as after 30 seconds the level would gradually increase, unfortunately the problem has got worse. Could it be the pre-amp tubes at fault?
Are there instructions on how to bias Origin 50 power tubes? A schematic?
I have a DSL40C i purchased in September. After a few weeks it started to emmit an arcing sound when in standby. I returned it to the supplier who found nothing wrong. It has been ok since except for a wooshing sound when it is first turned on that stays at the same volume even if I turn the volume up but slowly dissapears over time (I assumed this was just the valves heating up and settling and happened in both normal and low power modes) Today it started the arcing again and it would not turn the volume off in standby mode, then standby mode started working correctly and now if i put the amp in low power mode the volume starts decreasing and eventually disappears after about 10 seconds. Normal power mode seems to be OK though. Does this point to defective tubes already?
I purchased a new DSL40CR a few months ago. I think I need to replace some of the tubes/valves. The product is still under original manufacturer warranty, so I would like to take it to someone qualified to work on Marhsall amps, rather than change them myself. I have never owned a brand new amp before, so I don't want to void any warranty. How can I locate a proper amp technician in my area (Buffalo, NY) to help me with this? Appreciate any help. Thanks .