Hello, New amp I procured and I am hoping to get some Q's answered regarding.
It did not come with a footswitch and being new to all of this I do not know why I need one or which footswitch to get ????
Also, I was told by the original owner that it is quite than it used to be and may need a new tube. Also do not know which way to go with this ...
Last point is when switching over from clean to overdrive it is buzzing and I am not sure why...
After hours on youtube and reading the instruction manual I am even more confused.
Thanks in advance for comments/advice.
I have a Marshall Origin 50H, its about 7 months old and I've used it perhaps maybe 10 times total for some pretty low volume playing and never used on anything but the lowest 5w setting. I'm using it with a proper 16 ohm Celestion cabinet and proper cables and playing for about 40yrs so know what I'm doing, well, most days that is lol! :)
Anywho, after about 10 minutes the volume drops WAY off and I'm assuming its a power tube since the level of gain doesn't change at all, just the volume and it gets real compressed.
Since I've only had the amp 7 months, would the tubes be covered under warranty in any way? I would hope so due to how little I've used it, thanks for any insight.
can I use my JTM60 speaker with a Marshall Origin 20H Head?
Also, my JTM60 has suffered some damage when my nephew tried to power on the amplifier, she cranked everything up but didn't succed, when I got home I didn't noticed it was all cranked up and powered it, it blew tubes and some more, I had it repaired but it didn't get back to the same sound as before... I'd like to have it checked by qualified personnel, can you indicate someone in Italy, please?
Thanks a lot,
Have a few questions about attenuator usage with SC20H amp.
1. Do I need two attenuators? My cabinet has two speakers (8 Ohm each), and SC20H has two separate outputs for each speaker, so does it mean I have to buy two attenuators, one for each speaker? I didn't manage to find SC20H schematics, so I'm not sure if those two amp outputs are connected in parallel internally, and I can just use one attenuator.
2. Do I need attenuator(s) at all? I want to run the amp with overdriven tubes, thus I have to set max level, right? Consultant at my local store told me it's enough to reduce "Master" volume, and EL34 will still be overdriven, if I set "Pre-amp" volume to max. But folks at Marshall forum say that it's still better to use attenuator, even in 5W mode. Again, I don't have SC20H schematic, so it's hard to tell who is right.
3. What if my cabinet only have one 4 Ohm input (2 x 8 Ohm speakers inside)? Is it enough to connect it to the amp with only one cable? Or I have to rework my cabinet to have two different inputs (separate input for each speaker)?
Hi Marshall team,
so now I know I can use my origin 20 head without any cabinet connected, taking the sound from the DI out.
But my question is...can I use it with the master volume at 6-7 (1-2 o'clock), to get tube breakup point and creamy sound, like I usually do when the head is connected (through an attenuator) to the cabinet?
Is it safe to crank the volume (max 6-7) when using just the internal dummy load?
Please let me know, THANKS
Having issues with a clients amp, seems that after a retube that i did, he was playing and after about 30 min, it gradually started losing sound and then cut sound completely. I did the re-tube myself, and biased it properly and i was able to play it for about 40 min with absolutely no issues. List of troubleshooting steps i have done:
tried a different speaker cable
tried a different guitar cabinet
tried a different guitar and guitar cable
tried the old tubes, additionally bought a 12ax7 and tested each pre-amp tube
tried a different power source
Have tried different power tubes
have checked and replaced the fuses
Now this is what i am THINKING is the problem, I think it might be something with either the heater curcuit fuse, or i think it's called a BRT1 Rectifier? I did alot of research and it seems that the people having MY issue, explain the same symptoms of what i am having.
Now i have to make this clear, I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL TECH, just a guy helping bands out with tech stuff that they don't know how to do. So any help is appreciated.
Hi. I have bought the Marshall Code 212 cabinet with 8OHM. Now I want to buy Marshall DSL1HR tube head with 16OHM. Can I connect 16 OHM head to 8 OHM cabinet? Thanks in advance
Hello, I recently acquired a vs100 head and it has a lot of weird noise going on. I'm guessing it's down to the preamptube and I'm going to replace it when I get cash for a tube and if that fails I know a good place to get it serviced. What I really need help with is finding a 4x12 cab that goes well with the head. I want to get a good heavy sound going, I'm going to be using it to play doom metal mainly so if anyone has any suggestions. I would prefere a marshall cab and I've been looking at the 1960A, 1960B and 1960BV but can't really decide from what I have been able to google. There are no stores near me where I can try any cabs out either so I'm a bit stranded right now.
Is it possible to play two different tube amp heads at the same time out of one 1960a cab? Mine has the switch on the back to make the cab run in stereo mode and I was curious if it would be possible to use both inputs for independent heads. Of course the impedance would have to be matched (8 ohm - 8 ohm), but I have no idea if it would handle the amp load properly or not. Trying to find out for sure so I can avoid breaking something if it's not possible.
I've noticed that there is rattling/jangling coming from the amp (not the speaker) when playing notes between low A and C and their respective octaves above. It sounds like it is coming from the EL34 valves - is this due to the way that they are mounted without spring dampers? They have not gone microphonic as far as I can tell, and are otherwise performing as expected, so I feel this is more a mechanical issue with the chassis/mounting, or it's just an undesirable characteristic of the valves themselves. What I'd ideally like to know is, do all Origin 20Cs do this or is this the first anyone has heard about this?
I've removed every external variable there could be, moving the amp to another location and isolating it from floor vibrations in the studio. I've taken the 'amp' out of the cabinet so that I could lightly tap the valves, and check the screws around the supports are not loose. You can generate the rattle (or very similar) just by tapping lightly with the handle of a screwdriver, on both valves. This is what I was expecting if it was just physical vibrations from the speaker causing them to rattle in sypmathy. The rattling sound does not get amplified, so it's not in the audio path.
It's enough to be offputting when tracking/practicing in the studio unless pushing out really high volume so that you can only hear the guitar. I play fairly clean a lot of the time so it is more obvious under those conditions.
Would really appreciate some advice. If the answer is, "It's the same for all and there's not much that can be done..." then ok, I just need to know. That said, I spotted there was some sort of similar issue perhaps on Class 5 amps that a kit was developed for to resolve? I may have misunderstood though.
If there is any further mechanical troubleshooting to be done then please let me know. I wouldn't want to void the warranty status if possible. For what it's worth, I'm a systems and support engineer for a large format mixing console company, so I'm competent enough to poke around as required... just figured someone may have alreday solved this one before I carry on!