I am looking for a more low ended sound than the provided 12 inch speaker cone and would like to try a 15 inch speaker cone. is it possible to do this with minimal or no modifications to the build of the amp?
have a little problem.
At home, to write songs, I play with an old marshall valvestate 80watts (8080)
I'm looking for an amp to replace it.
The thing, and don't laugh please, is that I love the sound of the lead channel. If it is set properly, it sounds really good.
The distortion is really very sharp.
In any case, with my guitar it works wonders.
So I'm looking for a more current amp that can replace it.
I just need to be able to have sharp and precise sounds ... Zakk wylde way in Ozzy.
Here are the videos of the defect
This amp sounded like this since day one I always thought it was maybe just the effects but soon realised after using the clean channel turning off all the fx and amps and also having people look at it I realised that theres something seriously wrong with it. I tried contacting you guys for that 5 year warranty especially since its defective but have not gotten a response. Its been almost a year that I've been trying to figure whats wrong with it but even person I ask has no clue I've searched and searched and have found no such issue similar to mine. I would like to get an explaination of the issue and see if there is a solution or maybe a replacement if possible thank you.
Hey, new member here with a (hopfully) simple 2 part question.
First off, I recently purchased an Astoria Custom combo amp and I'd like to see about converting it for use with a standard USA power outlet. Does the Power Transformer have a 110 Volt tap or would the Power transformer need to be changed out? How extensive a change is this? Is there a Service center that can make this change for me in such a way that it will not void my warranty?
And in the second part of the question, in the interim until I can get the amp converted I've been using a power transformer to step up from 110V to 220V. What is the optimal wattage rating I should be using for this amp?
Thanks so much in advance for your help on this issue. - Joe
My AS50D acoustic combo has been working beautifully and I use it for a weekly residency gig. Yesterday the sound suddenly crackled and faded to silent on both channels. It was very embarrassing but I finished the gig acoustically.
When I got it home it worked fine but then after a few minutes it crackled and faded again. I wonder if it's a problem when it warms up?
Can you recommend a course of action? I need to get back up and running asap and reliably. Is it likely to be a simple connection that needs re-soldered so I can point an electrician in the right direction or should I just dump it as a bad job and replace with a more reliable amp?
Question about connecting a Model 1982B 4x12 lead cabinet to my Model 4211 JCM800 100 watt lead combo.
I just want to be sure on the ohms before connecting the 1982B. Both have been in storage for over 30 years. I have already tested the 4211 combo and it is working fine, It has 2 x G12T-75's connected to one of the two speaker jacks in parallel, with the ohm dial set to 8 omhs. The Model 1982B lead 4x12 cabinet has 320W RMS and 8 omhs marked on the plate. So the questions are...
1. With the 2x16 ohm combo speakers in parallel the amp should be set to 8 ohms on the dial, correct?
2. If I disconnect the 2 combo speakers and only plug in the 4x12 cabinet, the amp stays at 8 ohms?
3. If I connect bothe cabinets, combo at 8 ohms and 4x12 at 8 ohms, should the amp be set to 4 ohms?
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but both these things have survived over 30 years in storage, and the last thing I want to do is screw them up by being an idiot and connecting them wrong and frying them.
Thanks for any help in advance...
Does the cooling fan inside the MG50 Combo operate continuously, or is it a temperature-dependent variable-speed fan?
I'm curious to hear about anybody experimenting with removing the back on their Code to see what it sounds like.
I'm not a big fan of the closed back sound, especially on small combos. I've noticed my Code vibrates like crazy even on low volumes and I swear I can feel air puffing out of the headphone and/or pedal jacks. The speaker seems stifled closed inside that little box like it can't move or "breath". I'm wondering if that is causing the boomy vibrating noises this amp likes to make.
I did find one forum where someone mentioned taking the back off their 50 and they were amazed at how much it opened up the sound and it removed some of the feedback these amps seem prone to. I'm a little worried about voiding the warranty on the amp, but am real curious about what it would sound like if I made a 1/3 back like a standard combo or something along those lines.
Why don't the Code combos have speaker out jacks?
This is incredibly frustrating and made more so due to the nearly year long wait for the Code head to be available in the US. I am very interested to hear the modeling through 1960 cabs, and it simply doesn't make sense to have a completely closed system on the combo amps.
Please consider this option in subsequent versions.
Amp on clean channel super loud, when on distorted channel need to crank to half or more to equal clean on 1/4 setting, low gain 2 or 3, tubes or owner issue? Is this normal, kick in overdrive distortion goes through roof, in a good way. Loudness not like clean channel. Thoughts or suggestions, thanks in advance.
I want to add a noise gate pedal (MXR Smart Gate) to my JVM210C, mostly for the dirty channel, what's the best position to place it, before the pre-amp or in the FX loop?
Also, it makes a loud noise everytime i press the button. The pedal works well with other amps, anyone has the same problem with gates?