I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it...
I recently purchased the JVM210C amp, to replace a VS100. I turned it on the other day and heard a low hissing noise, which ended with a pop (volume hasn't been above 2 or 3 yet on any channel), and now there is no output. The amp still has power (power rocker, mode buttons, footswitch LEDs, tubes all light up ) My first thought is that one of the tubes failed, but could it have been a fuse? I've only had the amp for a month, so I'm struggling with what could be the issue. Any help is appreciated.
does anyone know where i can get a dsl 5 cr schmeatic ? needing for valve cange and justage of bias :)
I'm not looking for that tube sound, I'm looking for that ultra sparkling clean, loud, solid state sound. can anyone recommend an amp to me, either old or new https://waveadvice.com/tube-amp-heads-buyers-guide/ ?
Hello, I recently acquired a vs100 head and it has a lot of weird noise going on. I'm guessing it's down to the preamptube and I'm going to replace it when I get cash for a tube and if that fails I know a good place to get it serviced. What I really need help with is finding a 4x12 cab that goes well with the head. I want to get a good heavy sound going, I'm going to be using it to play doom metal mainly so if anyone has any suggestions. I would prefere a marshall cab and I've been looking at the 1960A, 1960B and 1960BV but can't really decide from what I have been able to google. There are no stores near me where I can try any cabs out either so I'm a bit stranded right now.
Hi there. I am not a native but I hope you'll be able to get me right.I have been using Dsl 15c for about 2 years and all of a sudden the amp stoped producing any sound. All controls freeze, footswitch is non responsive. Led’s and tubes are still lit. No pedals in line. I turn power switch off then on and hear sound like a relay click in the background and then sound immediately cuts out. My tech told me the problem is 99% in the microcontroller AT2313 because inside all fuses are still intact. He was able to read the code and fix errors that cut the sound out. However, it did not help because some of microcontroller ports were damaged(most likely it was a factory defect). Is it possible to re-record the code to new microcontroller or maybe there are some other options to consider?
I'm using a Origin 50 combo. I find when I crank the master volume and play at higher volumes, I get what sounds like glassy tube rattle. There is also just generally more noise than I would expect. I tried it with a different cabinet. It seems to be worst when using the internal speaker or when the amp is sitting on top of the external cabinet... my assumption is that the physical vibrations due to high volume are causing the tubes to rattle. The rattling is getting passed through the speaker, meaning that it is not just simply a physical rattle, but it is a transferred into the signal.
It sounds similar to some of the problems on the internet with the Class 5 that had rattling. Someone suggested that tube rings would fix it. Any suggestions?
Does changing from one wattage to another while the amp is on cause any problems?
It doesn't seem to cause any audio issues besides the obvious change in volume - but will it hurt the lifespan of the tubes or damage any components?
So what's the rule? Choose power level before turning on? Turn down the master volume before changing power levels? Or does it make zero difference?
I have a marshall dsl 100 head,I have a problem of no sound, the power supply is working fine,all valve tubes are working as well ,so I'm wondering what is the problem.
Is it possible to play two different tube amp heads at the same time out of one 1960a cab? Mine has the switch on the back to make the cab run in stereo mode and I was curious if it would be possible to use both inputs for independent heads. Of course the impedance would have to be matched (8 ohm - 8 ohm), but I have no idea if it would handle the amp load properly or not. Trying to find out for sure so I can avoid breaking something if it's not possible.
I have a question about my DSL5CR Classic Gain channel. I replaced the stock power tube with a 12BH7A-STR-TAD and replaced the stock pre-amp tubes with Genalex Gold Lion ECC83/12AX7 tubes. I biassed to 100mV. I now have no discernible gain in the clean channel. I can alter the volume, but even at full gain and full volume the tone is pure clean. Did I clean it up too much or is this normal?
Hello...I have a marshall dsl 100 and also dsl 40 C amp, need to change power tubes EL34, the ones I bought is JJ with 8 pins only, while the factory set tubes have 9 pin. Is there any issue using either of these?
Please read this post in the spirit in which it is posted.
I monitor these forums regularly as I have five Marshall CODE amps. and I guess I like to see what's going on and stay up-to-date. And I suppose I enjoy sharing my knowledge and helping others where I can. I must also note that I've not had any of the issues described on these forums with any of my CODE amps. And I must also note that I think they're the best modelling amps. around i.e. they're Marshalls and enough said.
But what concerns me (and hence this post) is this: there really does seem to be a lack of interest on the part of Marshall Amplification when it comes to the CODE range (at least here on the forums i.e. if emailing Technical Support yields different results then I do apologise) (and given the fact that I've had no issues at all with any of my CODE amps., as noted above, I've never had to contact Technical Support so I would not know). It's almost as if Marshall regret the day they got into this modelling business (and if that's not the case: sorry but that's my personal impression at the moment after, what, around eighteen months or so of monitoring these forums???). I mean to say: there are so many posts around here (dating back) asking for feedback re: apparent bluetooth issues, projected dates for new firmware updates, etc. etc. etc. And no answers. There's even been one or two posts asking if Marshall is going to continue with the CODE range or if it's something they want to get away from. No answer. I think you get the picture.
The above being said: I do understand how frustrating it must be to be asked the same old questions over and over and over again ESPECIALLY when a forum member couldn't even be bothered to search the forums for an answer before posting and asking a question or before reading the manual. Hell: if I had a few USD or GBP or EUR for every time I've answered a question on here re: standalone software to control these amps. well, then, I'd probably buy some more CODE amps.!!! LOL!!! Point is and all jokes aside: I do get it. But it's no excuse for a lack of response on some very key issues (like those mentioned above). And what's more: for some they're not asking for favors i.e. they're quite willing to help themselves but need a little bit of input (the Master Volume issue comes to mind here) and they just don't get that input. And (back to the firmware issue): some are even prepared to roll back their firmware to a previous version as (apparently) some issues were not issues in previous versions i.e. they're not even insisting that a new, immediate, firmware update with fixes is made available. Fairer than that I don't think they could be. But: no response (or, in some cases, a very non-committal response anyway).
In closing: I don't know if I'm correct in my assumption that Marshall isn't too interested in this CODE range of amps. I also don't know if, maybe, this (perceived on my part anyway) lack of interest is because this particular market is quite tough nowadays (what with other modelling amps. and a plethora of plugins and the rest of the junk out there) and maybe the core business (the more expensive and professional products) is being conentrated on and these CODE amps. are just an irritation. But you need to know this (as I have noted already): they are STILL Marshall amplifiers. And there is nothing on the market (whether it be another modelling amp. or a plugin) that sounds like these amps. (or, at very least, comes as close to emulating the more expensive and professional Marshall valve amps.). So they are actually something to be proud of Marshall. Just bear this in mind going forward.
As I said: please read in the spirit in which this is being posted.
No response is necessary either. But please do take cognisance of what I've posted above going forward.
I've noticed that there is rattling/jangling coming from the amp (not the speaker) when playing notes between low A and C and their respective octaves above. It sounds like it is coming from the EL34 valves - is this due to the way that they are mounted without spring dampers? They have not gone microphonic as far as I can tell, and are otherwise performing as expected, so I feel this is more a mechanical issue with the chassis/mounting, or it's just an undesirable characteristic of the valves themselves. What I'd ideally like to know is, do all Origin 20Cs do this or is this the first anyone has heard about this?
I've removed every external variable there could be, moving the amp to another location and isolating it from floor vibrations in the studio. I've taken the 'amp' out of the cabinet so that I could lightly tap the valves, and check the screws around the supports are not loose. You can generate the rattle (or very similar) just by tapping lightly with the handle of a screwdriver, on both valves. This is what I was expecting if it was just physical vibrations from the speaker causing them to rattle in sypmathy. The rattling sound does not get amplified, so it's not in the audio path.
It's enough to be offputting when tracking/practicing in the studio unless pushing out really high volume so that you can only hear the guitar. I play fairly clean a lot of the time so it is more obvious under those conditions.
Would really appreciate some advice. If the answer is, "It's the same for all and there's not much that can be done..." then ok, I just need to know. That said, I spotted there was some sort of similar issue perhaps on Class 5 amps that a kit was developed for to resolve? I may have misunderstood though.
If there is any further mechanical troubleshooting to be done then please let me know. I wouldn't want to void the warranty status if possible. For what it's worth, I'm a systems and support engineer for a large format mixing console company, so I'm competent enough to poke around as required... just figured someone may have alreday solved this one before I carry on!
Valve combo under 10 month old main power switch red stopped working can this be repaired under warranty ?
I got a doubt on well interpretating the manual where it states:
WARNING: When using the DSL1HR head
for ‘silent’ practice or DI recording ALWAYS
disconnect the speaker cabinet from the
amplifier’s rear panel before switching on.
NEVER unplug the speaker cable from the
speaker cabinet while it is still connected
to the amplifier rear panel. This may stress
the amplifier’s power-stage and in extreme
cases may lead to valve and/or transformer
can someone confirm what I understand: if I want to play using an headphone for silent practice (connecting my headphone to emulated line Out), I shall prior disconnect the external speaker from the rear of the amplifier (shouted off), (and never from the rear of the speaker cabinet). So I can Play the amplifier using headphone without connection to the cabinet? is that correct? An this is applicable also if I connect the amplifier to a mixer (by using Line out). That is quite strange because all other amplifiers recommend to never disconnect the speakers, with or without an headphone or something helse. Please help! I don't want do damage my DSL1HR. Thanks. Cheers.
I have had this amp for a few months and still can't seem to dial in a good sound. It is my first Marshall and first tube amp. I have looked on-line for settings to no avail. This also has the upgraded Creamback speaker from Sweetwater.
I use this mostly at home and am looking for a good clean tone and a good distorted tone. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I use the 20 watt setting.
I have to replace the power valves on my 2525C jubilee.
And I do not know if there is a bias setting to do.
Is the 2525C a cathode amp bias?
A class A?
Thank you in advance for your answer.
I have the JTM 1H offset. The tone control has no effect on the sound. I tried different volume levels. I tried different cabinets. I also changed the tubes. any advice?
Hi there, guys
I’m new to the forum and new to valve amps. In fact, I’ve just purchased my first valve amp: a brand new JCM 800 2203 reissue.
Running through a 1960av and a Rivera Rock Crusher attenuator and it sounds awesome - except for these damn so called ghost notes (just learned about them) that only happen when I set the master volume at higher values (above 6.5 or 7). It also only seems audible in higher pitches around the 12 fret.
Reading a lot about filter caps and stuff. But it’s a brand new amp and I still have warranty. So that’s not the case for trying to fix it myself.
My question is: should I assume it’s “normal” and keep my amp? If that’s the case, how can I crank it (and get that beautiful power section overdrive) and minimize those annoying ghost notes? Is electric grounding improvement / adding a power filter of any good?
Or you guys think I should go to Marshall assistance and ask for a replacement?
Thank you very much,
Any help appreciated,