I have been using my El84 20/20 with a 2x12 1936 cab in stereo for 5 years.
Resently the right side has started to intermitently go quite compared to left.
Ive had it looked at by my local repair shop but they cant find the issue
and I ve changed the power tubes on the right side only to see if that sorts it.
I cant find much about the same problem online so I guess its not common.
I recently purchased a Marshall Origin 20 Head and I am experiencing a rattling sound. Could this be the tubes or could it possibly be something else? Is there anything I can check on my own to narrow down the problem?
Can any one suggest what preset and adjustments to get a Tube Screamer sound from my code 50
Thanks in advance
I wanted to change the power tube in my DSL1HR Head. Will it need Re Biasing ? or I can go ahead and just swap the tube and no problems it is good to go.
So I have a 1977 JMP 50 watt 4 hole amp. S# 474j. Model says M2100. I was told when I bought it used it was a special order amp. It was not available at any dealer. It was a 212 combo. I took it out of the combo box and got a mojotone headshell for it. It is all original except for the case/box. It still had Marshall branded pre amp tubes when I got it. It has GE 6550 power tubes. I am thinking of selling it. Does anyone know the value of an amp like this. The Doyle book doesn't talk much about it, he says no bother, very few people will have one. Well I do but don't know anything about it.
So I thank you for the reply. I tried to send pictures to the link in your email but I kept getting them returned. Is there another way to get pictures to you? I tried the insert tab here but it just says link? I am technically challenged, sorry bout that.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Hi, can anyone explains to me WHY we can't use a CODE 100H without the cabinet? For VALVE amps there is a good reason for which you need the cabinet always connected but for solid state amps it seems very strange.
Is it maybe an error in the manual? Maybe it's a phrase that has been written for all the Marshall valve heads and it was mistakenly added to the CODE as well?
Please let me know, I have an application where I only need the 100H coming up soon.
My 1974x amp is quiet when nothing is plugged into it, but as soon as I plug my intrument cable into the non-tremolo channel, I get this awful cyclic noise. Does anyone know what to do? I replaced the ECC83 tubes one by one (testing it between each tube replacement), but it didn't fix the problem.
Here's a video of my problem.
Hello I'm considering to buy DSL1HR or CR for silent recording at home. But I would like to use fx loop SEND output to record raw valve soud to apply impulse response later.
Is it safe to unplug cabinet, and without connecting headphones use these amps in such manner?
And if so, why? Usually valve amp needs speaker load
Thank you in advance for the answare!
Is the DSL5CR Combo cathode bias or will I need to bias the amp after swapping tubes? Pre-amp and power amp tubes? Thanks in advance
Amp is a little over a year old was fine then past few weeks after warmup the volume would dump. All cables, inputs were checked and new JJ tubes put in which seemed like it fixed the issue However when I engaged the Tone Shift button the volume dumped again and when manipulating this button it caused the amp to crackle and seemed to be shorting out the power which intern was dumping the volume.. My tech replaced the Tone Shift curcuit but still when pushing the button in it causes the same issue, we are at a lost..and frustrated...Any Comments or Suggestions greatly appreciated
I have a new Marshall DSL1CR and it make a popping noise when changing channels from the Ultra gain to Classic gain while playing.
If I mute the guitar, or changing channels from the Classic gain to Ultra gain or using the emulated out there is no pop.
There is same noise when switching off it.
Is it normal or somethings wrong with my combo?
Thanks & best regards.
I need a new circuit board for my Marshall 20/40 combo amp. I turn the amp on and it will play for a little while and then all sound ceases until I turn it back on. I've change out tubes to no avail and I broke out my old amp mod equipment and tested circuits. That's the only piece I am unfamiliar with so I'm thinking that's the issue. My vendor tells me they can't order it because the amp is discontinued. Where can I order one so I can fix my amp?
I own both a Stanmore and a Woburn (recently), and I have never had a single issue with either. I've used the Stanmore literally daily for a few years as my main living room speaker for both streaming and AV-vinyl, and the sound and punch are both absolutely incredible. The price you've quoted sounds like a steal, and if it is in good shape I would internet cafe sweepstakes providers snatch that up. You might get the odd pop when it's turned up which can be startling when it happens, but small price to pay for tubes and quality.
I stream mainly from my laptop, and the only thing you may find is that for some reason mobile streaming from Spotify tends to be underpowered for some reason, although I had a similar issue streaming Spotify from my phone to a proper event hall AV system via aux cord so I wouldn't really fault the Stanmore for that.
Ultimately it is incredible sound and to be honest even my Sonos Play:1s have a hard time competing with a single Stanmore. The Sonos provide slightly crisper sound and the stereo is a clear advantage if that's important to you, but the Marshall sound is warm with deep powerful bass that easily makes up for some of the clarity loss (and I really can't stress enough that unless you're an audiophile and actually sit and compare them in an intense back and forth, you would have a hard time deciding which is better - I actually prefer the Stanmore for certain types of music).
I hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions!
I know that turning a "TUBE" amp on without a speaker load on the output will damage the amp.
(the no-load condition will cause the output voltage to increase until the output tubes burn out, which can then lead to other component damage)
Is this also true for a CODE 100 amp? Is there a risk of damage to the output section, with turning the unit on without a speaker cab load connected?
Would it be safe to operate the amp with just headphones connected instead of a speaker cab?
Would it be safe to operate the amp without either a speaker cab or headphones connected?
I ask because my computer (which is a desktop) is in a different location in my house than my amp.
Doing firmware updates or testing out patches requires either moving my computer or my amp, both of which are very inconvenient.
It would be much easier if all I had to move was the head.
I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it .
I have a bunch of Marshall amps and recently added a Code 100H to my collection.
I'd like to connect it to a JMD1 102, in order to use it as a valve power amp and cab for the Code as a preamp. I usually do it on my other amps by connecting the send from the "preamp" to the return of the "power amp", but in this case it didn't work, the only way to get some sound from it was connecting the headphones output to the input of the JMD1, but that's not what I expect once I have another preamp in the chain. Did anyone tried something similar?
Currently my JVM410HJS squeals periodically. Initially this would only happen occasionally and I was still able to gig with it, but now it has become to frequent to use. It will do this even if unplugged from a guitar and will do it no matter which channel it is on. Channel switching does not stop it. I am not sure where to start. Am going to change out the tubes and reset the MIDI switch, but otherwise will have to travel a good distance to find a qualified tech. Anyone else ever had this issue?
Ive started playing guitar again later in life after first playing at the age of 10. My skill level is probably moderate but I enjoy playing again. I don’t gig or plan to be in a band. I’m either playing at home by myself or I have a buddy that I will go play with at his house. I have a couple nice Epiphone’s and 2 Yamaha DG60 amps. Theses amps are pretty good and have allot of different adjustments for different sounds. They both have an intermittent issue where something cuts out like the gain or reverb. I’ve though about taking them to get looked at but that’s another decision other then my request.
Lately I’ve been kicking around getting a new amp. The more research I do the more I get confused. Get another solid state amp, a modeling amp or a tube amp. I’ve never had a Marshal and out of pure envy I’d like to get a Marshall but only if it’s the right amp for me. Money isn’t a deterrent. I’ve worked my way up to looking at a Marshall combo 2x12 100 watt. JVM210C.
The reallity is I don’t think a 100W tube amp is a smart choice for me. Currently I play my 60W no more then 50% volume. And from what I’ve been told is you need to turn up a tube amp to saturate the tubes to get the most out of the sound. I’d probably only turn a 100Watt up past 50% on rare occasions like when I’m drunk and think I sound better then I really do.
Is there a 1x12 or 2x12 Marshall tube amp that you can switch between 50W and 100W? That might satisfy my needs? What about the JVM215C? What about the code 50?
I should note I like to play classic rock/rock and metal, Led Zeppelin, Black Sabbath, AC/DC, Kiss, Jimi Hendrix, UFO, OZZY, Pantera.....
I want something that sounds great played quite or LOUD! I don’t want something that needs a bunch of pedals for different sounds. But I don’t want an amp that has a bunch of effects but just has that fake/cheap sound. I know I’m asking allot. I just need some good advice from someone that has been around music allot and has knowledge about amps. Then I can narrow down some choices and then go to a guitar center or somewhere and play a couple!
Thank you in advance,
signed “confused” Jeff