Hi. I have bought the Marshall Code 212 cabinet with 8OHM. Now I want to buy Marshall DSL1HR tube head with 16OHM. Can I connect 16 OHM head to 8 OHM cabinet? Thanks in advance
So I've been thinking about buying a Celestion F12-X200 speaker for my code 50 and was wondering it this would work. The reason I need to know this is because even though I know you can use an 8ohm speaker on a 4ohm tube amp, I'm not sure about a digital amp. Could anyone tell me if this is possible.
hi everyone, i have a CODE 50 and the biggest complaint i have is finding a preset that allows the amp to be "sensitive" to the controls on my guitars.
you know with any halfway decent tube amp you can ride the volume knob on the guitar to not only turn down (attenuate) the volume but actually change the tone. i know most people use what i call "help me box's" to do this, however, i never use those things. my question is, does anyone know a preset that i can program that will achieve this?
the basic sound would be any Fender or Marshall.
i look forward to anything you all have to say,
I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a new piece of gear I purchased. I recently bought a used Marshall DSL40CR that was running fine, but just tonight the High channel stopped working. Low is perfectly fine, but Highstarted having a heavily muddied sound and now I'm hearing nothing out of it. All tubes are glowing, but I figured I'd seek out some sage advice before taking things apart and potentially making things worse.
I have a TSL 100 that gives low output on crunch and lead channel. (no tube problems)
I´ve seen that this problem is common. Do you have a suggestion what could be wrong?
I suspect one of the J-Fet switches are faulty but I can´t locate any faulty ones?
(I do amp service part time)
Regards / Lars
My J60 tube amp made a loud POP while jamming. All the tubes are secure and lit up, and the fuse still looks good. The amp isn’t making any sound at all though. Any suggestions on what might be the problem?
Can anyone tell me the correct bias settings for a Marshall TSL602? There is conflicting info out there.
Tthe TSL range have 3 pins under an inspection cover on the back. Some people say that the bias should be set to 40mv between the middle pin and the outer (total 80mv). Others say that it should be 80mv per side.
I’ve had the amp for 18 years and always have it set just short of 80mv, but I never seem to get much life out of my valves – probably half the 1,000 hours you’d expect. And the sound always seems to lack a bit of treble. Whenever I have it serviced, it always seems to come back set at around 80mv per side but it always seems to run a bit hot to me.
Should I be lowering the bias?
High, first off, I am new to the modeling world, my main rig is peavey and Line6 DT25 tube rigs.
I bought a Code 50 as a quick and reliable solid state backup/practice amp to gig with if needed.
I love the sounds of it but at times the BASS just takes over even when Bass knob is rolled to
zero. no matter what settings i use the Bass is booming. I am thinking of a speaker upgrade
possibly but is there any advice on settings that may help me pull the mid range out more. I
use Super Cleans and Gritty Gains. Hard Rock/Metal sounds
I recently bought a new DSL40CR. Great sounding amp! Great tones! I am noticing that the low end sounds a bit flubby. I was reading in some forums that this can be caused by improperly adjusted BIAS. Can anyone direct me as to what the mV for each left and right tubes should be set to?
Hello Group! I am about to receive my new Marshall Origin 50 watt head on Monday (March 5th). I'm excited as hell! I was looking for a 50 watt platform to go through my hand made Tweed 1X12 cab with a EVM12L that I built three years ago. I just had a bad expierience buying a Fender Bandmaster VM with a blown digital effects board. The repair facility could not obtain this part from anywhere. I wound up returning it to Reverb.com and was out all the repair money, two 5 hour round trips and $55 to ship it back. I was really devistated until (by accident) I stumbled onto this Origin series amp. I owned a few Marshalls in my day but this one really caught my eye. My question to you guys is this; normally amps come through with pretty basic tubes. I have no idea what the Origin comes with as far as stock tubes. Being the perfectionist that I am and the gear freak I've always been, I'm already wanting to upgrade the 12AX7's (EC83s) and the EL34s. Any suggestions as to a good upgrade or are the stock tubes pretty good? Thanks guys (and gals)
I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it...
I recently purchased the JVM210C amp, to replace a VS100. I turned it on the other day and heard a low hissing noise, which ended with a pop (volume hasn't been above 2 or 3 yet on any channel), and now there is no output. The amp still has power (power rocker, mode buttons, footswitch LEDs, tubes all light up ) My first thought is that one of the tubes failed, but could it have been a fuse? I've only had the amp for a month, so I'm struggling with what could be the issue. Any help is appreciated.
does anyone know where i can get a dsl 5 cr schmeatic ? needing for valve cange and justage of bias :)
I'm not looking for that tube sound, I'm looking for that ultra sparkling clean, loud, solid state sound. can anyone recommend an amp to me, either old or new https://waveadvice.com/tube-amp-heads-buyers-guide/ ?
Hello, I recently acquired a vs100 head and it has a lot of weird noise going on. I'm guessing it's down to the preamptube and I'm going to replace it when I get cash for a tube and if that fails I know a good place to get it serviced. What I really need help with is finding a 4x12 cab that goes well with the head. I want to get a good heavy sound going, I'm going to be using it to play doom metal mainly so if anyone has any suggestions. I would prefere a marshall cab and I've been looking at the 1960A, 1960B and 1960BV but can't really decide from what I have been able to google. There are no stores near me where I can try any cabs out either so I'm a bit stranded right now.
Hi there. I am not a native but I hope you'll be able to get me right.I have been using Dsl 15c for about 2 years and all of a sudden the amp stoped producing any sound. All controls freeze, footswitch is non responsive. Led’s and tubes are still lit. No pedals in line. I turn power switch off then on and hear sound like a relay click in the background and then sound immediately cuts out. My tech told me the problem is 99% in the microcontroller AT2313 because inside all fuses are still intact. He was able to read the code and fix errors that cut the sound out. However, it did not help because some of microcontroller ports were damaged(most likely it was a factory defect). Is it possible to re-record the code to new microcontroller or maybe there are some other options to consider?
I'm using a Origin 50 combo. I find when I crank the master volume and play at higher volumes, I get what sounds like glassy tube rattle. There is also just generally more noise than I would expect. I tried it with a different cabinet. It seems to be worst when using the internal speaker or when the amp is sitting on top of the external cabinet... my assumption is that the physical vibrations due to high volume are causing the tubes to rattle. The rattling is getting passed through the speaker, meaning that it is not just simply a physical rattle, but it is a transferred into the signal.
It sounds similar to some of the problems on the internet with the Class 5 that had rattling. Someone suggested that tube rings would fix it. Any suggestions?
Does changing from one wattage to another while the amp is on cause any problems?
It doesn't seem to cause any audio issues besides the obvious change in volume - but will it hurt the lifespan of the tubes or damage any components?
So what's the rule? Choose power level before turning on? Turn down the master volume before changing power levels? Or does it make zero difference?
I have a marshall dsl 100 head,I have a problem of no sound, the power supply is working fine,all valve tubes are working as well ,so I'm wondering what is the problem.
Is it possible to play two different tube amp heads at the same time out of one 1960a cab? Mine has the switch on the back to make the cab run in stereo mode and I was curious if it would be possible to use both inputs for independent heads. Of course the impedance would have to be matched (8 ohm - 8 ohm), but I have no idea if it would handle the amp load properly or not. Trying to find out for sure so I can avoid breaking something if it's not possible.