I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a new piece of gear I purchased. I recently bought a used Marshall DSL40CR that was running fine, but just tonight the High channel stopped working. Low is perfectly fine, but Highstarted having a heavily muddied sound and now I'm hearing nothing out of it. All tubes are glowing, but I figured I'd seek out some sage advice before taking things apart and potentially making things worse.
I have a TSL 100 that gives low output on crunch and lead channel. (no tube problems)
I´ve seen that this problem is common. Do you have a suggestion what could be wrong?
I suspect one of the J-Fet switches are faulty but I can´t locate any faulty ones?
(I do amp service part time)
Regards / Lars
My J60 tube amp made a loud POP while jamming. All the tubes are secure and lit up, and the fuse still looks good. The amp isn’t making any sound at all though. Any suggestions on what might be the problem?
Can anyone tell me the correct bias settings for a Marshall TSL602? There is conflicting info out there.
Tthe TSL range have 3 pins under an inspection cover on the back. Some people say that the bias should be set to 40mv between the middle pin and the outer (total 80mv). Others say that it should be 80mv per side.
I’ve had the amp for 18 years and always have it set just short of 80mv, but I never seem to get much life out of my valves – probably half the 1,000 hours you’d expect. And the sound always seems to lack a bit of treble. Whenever I have it serviced, it always seems to come back set at around 80mv per side but it always seems to run a bit hot to me.
Should I be lowering the bias?
High, first off, I am new to the modeling world, my main rig is peavey and Line6 DT25 tube rigs.
I bought a Code 50 as a quick and reliable solid state backup/practice amp to gig with if needed.
I love the sounds of it but at times the BASS just takes over even when Bass knob is rolled to
zero. no matter what settings i use the Bass is booming. I am thinking of a speaker upgrade
possibly but is there any advice on settings that may help me pull the mid range out more. I
use Super Cleans and Gritty Gains. Hard Rock/Metal sounds
I recently bought a new DSL40CR. Great sounding amp! Great tones! I am noticing that the low end sounds a bit flubby. I was reading in some forums that this can be caused by improperly adjusted BIAS. Can anyone direct me as to what the mV for each left and right tubes should be set to?
Hello Group! I am about to receive my new Marshall Origin 50 watt head on Monday (March 5th). I'm excited as hell! I was looking for a 50 watt platform to go through my hand made Tweed 1X12 cab with a EVM12L that I built three years ago. I just had a bad expierience buying a Fender Bandmaster VM with a blown digital effects board. The repair facility could not obtain this part from anywhere. I wound up returning it to Reverb.com and was out all the repair money, two 5 hour round trips and $55 to ship it back. I was really devistated until (by accident) I stumbled onto this Origin series amp. I owned a few Marshalls in my day but this one really caught my eye. My question to you guys is this; normally amps come through with pretty basic tubes. I have no idea what the Origin comes with as far as stock tubes. Being the perfectionist that I am and the gear freak I've always been, I'm already wanting to upgrade the 12AX7's (EC83s) and the EL34s. Any suggestions as to a good upgrade or are the stock tubes pretty good? Thanks guys (and gals)
I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it...
I recently purchased the JVM210C amp, to replace a VS100. I turned it on the other day and heard a low hissing noise, which ended with a pop (volume hasn't been above 2 or 3 yet on any channel), and now there is no output. The amp still has power (power rocker, mode buttons, footswitch LEDs, tubes all light up ) My first thought is that one of the tubes failed, but could it have been a fuse? I've only had the amp for a month, so I'm struggling with what could be the issue. Any help is appreciated.
does anyone know where i can get a dsl 5 cr schmeatic ? needing for valve cange and justage of bias :)
I'm not looking for that tube sound, I'm looking for that ultra sparkling clean, loud, solid state sound. can anyone recommend an amp to me, either old or new https://waveadvice.com/tube-amp-heads-buyers-guide/ ?
Hello, I recently acquired a vs100 head and it has a lot of weird noise going on. I'm guessing it's down to the preamptube and I'm going to replace it when I get cash for a tube and if that fails I know a good place to get it serviced. What I really need help with is finding a 4x12 cab that goes well with the head. I want to get a good heavy sound going, I'm going to be using it to play doom metal mainly so if anyone has any suggestions. I would prefere a marshall cab and I've been looking at the 1960A, 1960B and 1960BV but can't really decide from what I have been able to google. There are no stores near me where I can try any cabs out either so I'm a bit stranded right now.
Hi there. I am not a native but I hope you'll be able to get me right.I have been using Dsl 15c for about 2 years and all of a sudden the amp stoped producing any sound. All controls freeze, footswitch is non responsive. Led’s and tubes are still lit. No pedals in line. I turn power switch off then on and hear sound like a relay click in the background and then sound immediately cuts out. My tech told me the problem is 99% in the microcontroller AT2313 because inside all fuses are still intact. He was able to read the code and fix errors that cut the sound out. However, it did not help because some of microcontroller ports were damaged(most likely it was a factory defect). Is it possible to re-record the code to new microcontroller or maybe there are some other options to consider?
I'm using a Origin 50 combo. I find when I crank the master volume and play at higher volumes, I get what sounds like glassy tube rattle. There is also just generally more noise than I would expect. I tried it with a different cabinet. It seems to be worst when using the internal speaker or when the amp is sitting on top of the external cabinet... my assumption is that the physical vibrations due to high volume are causing the tubes to rattle. The rattling is getting passed through the speaker, meaning that it is not just simply a physical rattle, but it is a transferred into the signal.
It sounds similar to some of the problems on the internet with the Class 5 that had rattling. Someone suggested that tube rings would fix it. Any suggestions?
Does changing from one wattage to another while the amp is on cause any problems?
It doesn't seem to cause any audio issues besides the obvious change in volume - but will it hurt the lifespan of the tubes or damage any components?
So what's the rule? Choose power level before turning on? Turn down the master volume before changing power levels? Or does it make zero difference?
I have a marshall dsl 100 head,I have a problem of no sound, the power supply is working fine,all valve tubes are working as well ,so I'm wondering what is the problem.
Is it possible to play two different tube amp heads at the same time out of one 1960a cab? Mine has the switch on the back to make the cab run in stereo mode and I was curious if it would be possible to use both inputs for independent heads. Of course the impedance would have to be matched (8 ohm - 8 ohm), but I have no idea if it would handle the amp load properly or not. Trying to find out for sure so I can avoid breaking something if it's not possible.
I have a question about my DSL5CR Classic Gain channel. I replaced the stock power tube with a 12BH7A-STR-TAD and replaced the stock pre-amp tubes with Genalex Gold Lion ECC83/12AX7 tubes. I biassed to 100mV. I now have no discernible gain in the clean channel. I can alter the volume, but even at full gain and full volume the tone is pure clean. Did I clean it up too much or is this normal?
Hello...I have a marshall dsl 100 and also dsl 40 C amp, need to change power tubes EL34, the ones I bought is JJ with 8 pins only, while the factory set tubes have 9 pin. Is there any issue using either of these?
Please read this post in the spirit in which it is posted.
I monitor these forums regularly as I have five Marshall CODE amps. and I guess I like to see what's going on and stay up-to-date. And I suppose I enjoy sharing my knowledge and helping others where I can. I must also note that I've not had any of the issues described on these forums with any of my CODE amps. And I must also note that I think they're the best modelling amps. around i.e. they're Marshalls and enough said.
But what concerns me (and hence this post) is this: there really does seem to be a lack of interest on the part of Marshall Amplification when it comes to the CODE range (at least here on the forums i.e. if emailing Technical Support yields different results then I do apologise) (and given the fact that I've had no issues at all with any of my CODE amps., as noted above, I've never had to contact Technical Support so I would not know). It's almost as if Marshall regret the day they got into this modelling business (and if that's not the case: sorry but that's my personal impression at the moment after, what, around eighteen months or so of monitoring these forums???). I mean to say: there are so many posts around here (dating back) asking for feedback re: apparent bluetooth issues, projected dates for new firmware updates, etc. etc. etc. And no answers. There's even been one or two posts asking if Marshall is going to continue with the CODE range or if it's something they want to get away from. No answer. I think you get the picture.
The above being said: I do understand how frustrating it must be to be asked the same old questions over and over and over again ESPECIALLY when a forum member couldn't even be bothered to search the forums for an answer before posting and asking a question or before reading the manual. Hell: if I had a few USD or GBP or EUR for every time I've answered a question on here re: standalone software to control these amps. well, then, I'd probably buy some more CODE amps.!!! LOL!!! Point is and all jokes aside: I do get it. But it's no excuse for a lack of response on some very key issues (like those mentioned above). And what's more: for some they're not asking for favors i.e. they're quite willing to help themselves but need a little bit of input (the Master Volume issue comes to mind here) and they just don't get that input. And (back to the firmware issue): some are even prepared to roll back their firmware to a previous version as (apparently) some issues were not issues in previous versions i.e. they're not even insisting that a new, immediate, firmware update with fixes is made available. Fairer than that I don't think they could be. But: no response (or, in some cases, a very non-committal response anyway).
In closing: I don't know if I'm correct in my assumption that Marshall isn't too interested in this CODE range of amps. I also don't know if, maybe, this (perceived on my part anyway) lack of interest is because this particular market is quite tough nowadays (what with other modelling amps. and a plethora of plugins and the rest of the junk out there) and maybe the core business (the more expensive and professional products) is being conentrated on and these CODE amps. are just an irritation. But you need to know this (as I have noted already): they are STILL Marshall amplifiers. And there is nothing on the market (whether it be another modelling amp. or a plugin) that sounds like these amps. (or, at very least, comes as close to emulating the more expensive and professional Marshall valve amps.). So they are actually something to be proud of Marshall. Just bear this in mind going forward.
As I said: please read in the spirit in which this is being posted.
No response is necessary either. But please do take cognisance of what I've posted above going forward.