Should i connect my wah pedal and tube screamer to the fx loop of my dsl20 combo or directly to the input? Can you tell me the difference and if it's possible of causing any damage? Thanks
Does 5w combo 5C need rebiasing when replacing tubes?
It´s a Class A amp?
Hello friends at marshall
Just bought a new DSL20 combo and i would like to ask if i can install my AMT S-11 tube preamp pedal to the amp without causing damage.
Thanks in advance
I am getting a high pitch squeal out of my amp but only in the OD1, and OD2, channels in anything above green channel. Tubes have checked out fine. I am using a pedal board through the FX loop but I also use a Voodoo Labs isolated power supply. And I have pulled each pedal out of the loop, one at a time to see if it was a specific pedal that was causing the issue. Still squeals even without pedal board. It is becoming frustrating to try and determine what the issue is. Any suggestions or advice?
Where I can buy the Marshall Dsl40c's fuses?
I've had a hard time finding them. My Marshall went silence and I replaced all the tubes.
Running out of ideas.
What brand does Marshall recommend for replacement tubes? I would like to know what would be the best tubes to replace both the ECC83 and EL34 tubes with. I recently had the power tubes replaced under warranty and they used Groove Tubes. To me, they don't sound as warm as the original tubes. I play mostly blues and rock. I like the warm rich sound. I use the overdrive channel, but don't get into the metal sound.
Anyway, I figure I should ask the experts. If you could tell me where I might be able to purchase the tubes you recommend that would be a plus. I'm in the USA.
I recently acquired an Origin 50c. I love this amp and am very happy with it. I have been looking for info regarding tube replacement. I have found several places that indicate the Origin 20 is self biasing, but have seen conflicting info on the 50c. Does the 50c need rebiasing when replacing tubes?
I have a DSL15 that is humming a 120 Hz tone, even with all controls down. This tells me the trouble is in the power section. I checked the bias voltage of both 6V6 tubes, and they are there. However, when I checked the voltage across the plate current sensing resistors, one is around 24 mV, and the other is virtually zero. I swapped the tubes, and the voltage values on the resistors went the other way round. It looks I have a bad 6V6 tube, but I'dlike to confirm before I go buying a new one. Any thoughts?
Hello everyone i hope your all doing well
I recently we are talking the last 4 days purchesed my dream amp a marshall DSL100HR. I was very excited to finally be able to get my hands on a marshall super lead series amp. The dream has become a bit of a nightmare as currently i am the proud owner of a fancy paper weight. I handled the amp head with extreme care when i got it. I let it acclimate to my house temp befor even taking it out of the shipping packiging then when i did i was baby gental in doing so i set it up correctly and double checked so befor even powering up the amp. When i did power on the amp i let the tubes warm up like i read to do so i did this for 15m when i switched the amp to power low mode on i think that its 50watt in that mode. I heard a loud pop pop pop buzz and everything died the amp became unresponsive and the only thing that seemed to be working was that the tubes were lighting up properly and i could run the amp in standby thats it. the front panel was dead the foot switch was dead but the amp could still power on does anybody know what the hell happand ?
what did i do wrong did i just get a lemon ?
is this common with this amp range ?
I am not rich it took a lot of financial planning to be able to afford this amp i am so bummed out. I did speak to the place i bought it from and there sending me a return label and when they get it they will ship a new DSL to me but this whole situation sucks. Thanks for any insite and help i wish everyone well !
(update) I got the return label sent the amp head back there processing a new DSL100HR order for me i wont get it till tuesday/wensday hope the one they send me works ! If the new DSL100HR also has issues i will most likely swear off tube amps forever not at all pleased with my initial experience at all.
(update 2) I have the new DSL100HR and this one works so i guess i got a lemon befor all is well now enjoy your lives people stay metal ! stay rock and roll ! most important stay safe out there !
Hi everyone :)
I'm a total beginner when it comes to tube amps as it's my very first one.
I've got that weird feeling that something is wrong with my Origin 20C, when I push the gain to its max I don't get that sexy crunchy tone.
I can see the lights of all the 3 preamp and power tubes through the grid.
If one of them was dead It shouldn't be lightened at all right ?
I thought I had to wait for 30s before pushing the master and play but saw later on the notice that they recommend to do it 2 minutes after turning amp on.
Plus, one our two times and used to transistors amps, I didn't wait at all. Could it caused the issue?
I don't hear any particular cracks, just a bit of white noise when I push it all up
Thanks you all !!
Just realised the classic gain channel (clean) is louder than the ultra gain channel on my amp. Is this normal? This is with both channels being set the same. Also the preamp tube for the classic gain channel is very dim to the point it's hard to see it lighting up! This is my first tube amp so I'm pretty clueless.
I'm getting the impression, the tech I'm dealing with thinks I or my settings could be the cause, due to the fact I guess this is the second time within a year I've had this problem. I don't push the amp hard. It's in a 10 x10 room I converted to a studio for recording. Maybe you would be so kind as to help me again. My current settings for volume are:
Overdrive channel Gain is @ 2 Volume is at 75%. On the clean/crunch channel the gain is at 8 and the volume at 75%. The masters are both at about 2. This gives me a good tone at a low volume. In the small room, it's in turning the masters up even to just 5 would require ear protection.
The question is are theses settings pushing the power or preamp tubes to the point that would shorten their lifespan?
I have an Origin 20 Combo and I just bought a new set of tubes, and I was wondering if i have to take it to a technician to bias it, or even if it needs to be biased?
I had a problem less than a year ago. I heard a light popping sound, then another then no sound. The amp was repaired under warranty. I was setting up to record. I turned the amp on, tuned up while I wanted for the tubes to warm up and when I brought the amp out of standby I heard that familiar pop. Kind of like a lightbulb popping. I have had tube amps in the past and never had to replace tubes so regularly. Is this an issue with this model Marshall?
I have been using my El84 20/20 with a 2x12 1936 cab in stereo for 5 years.
Resently the right side has started to intermitently go quite compared to left.
Ive had it looked at by my local repair shop but they cant find the issue
and I ve changed the power tubes on the right side only to see if that sorts it.
I cant find much about the same problem online so I guess its not common.
I recently purchased a Marshall Origin 20 Head and I am experiencing a rattling sound. Could this be the tubes or could it possibly be something else? Is there anything I can check on my own to narrow down the problem?
Can any one suggest what preset and adjustments to get a Tube Screamer sound from my code 50
Thanks in advance
I wanted to change the power tube in my DSL1HR Head. Will it need Re Biasing ? or I can go ahead and just swap the tube and no problems it is good to go.
So I have a 1977 JMP 50 watt 4 hole amp. S# 474j. Model says M2100. I was told when I bought it used it was a special order amp. It was not available at any dealer. It was a 212 combo. I took it out of the combo box and got a mojotone headshell for it. It is all original except for the case/box. It still had Marshall branded pre amp tubes when I got it. It has GE 6550 power tubes. I am thinking of selling it. Does anyone know the value of an amp like this. The Doyle book doesn't talk much about it, he says no bother, very few people will have one. Well I do but don't know anything about it.
So I thank you for the reply. I tried to send pictures to the link in your email but I kept getting them returned. Is there another way to get pictures to you? I tried the insert tab here but it just says link? I am technically challenged, sorry bout that.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Hi, can anyone explains to me WHY we can't use a CODE 100H without the cabinet? For VALVE amps there is a good reason for which you need the cabinet always connected but for solid state amps it seems very strange.
Is it maybe an error in the manual? Maybe it's a phrase that has been written for all the Marshall valve heads and it was mistakenly added to the CODE as well?
Please let me know, I have an application where I only need the 100H coming up soon.