Just realised the classic gain channel (clean) is louder than the ultra gain channel on my amp. Is this normal? This is with both channels being set the same. Also the preamp tube for the classic gain channel is very dim to the point it's hard to see it lighting up! This is my first tube amp so I'm pretty clueless.
I'm getting the impression, the tech I'm dealing with thinks I or my settings could be the cause, due to the fact I guess this is the second time within a year I've had this problem. I don't push the amp hard. It's in a 10 x10 room I converted to a studio for recording. Maybe you would be so kind as to help me again. My current settings for volume are:
Overdrive channel Gain is @ 2 Volume is at 75%. On the clean/crunch channel the gain is at 8 and the volume at 75%. The masters are both at about 2. This gives me a good tone at a low volume. In the small room, it's in turning the masters up even to just 5 would require ear protection.
The question is are theses settings pushing the power or preamp tubes to the point that would shorten their lifespan?
I have an Origin 20 Combo and I just bought a new set of tubes, and I was wondering if i have to take it to a technician to bias it, or even if it needs to be biased?
I had a problem less than a year ago. I heard a light popping sound, then another then no sound. The amp was repaired under warranty. I was setting up to record. I turned the amp on, tuned up while I wanted for the tubes to warm up and when I brought the amp out of standby I heard that familiar pop. Kind of like a lightbulb popping. I have had tube amps in the past and never had to replace tubes so regularly. Is this an issue with this model Marshall?
I have been using my El84 20/20 with a 2x12 1936 cab in stereo for 5 years.
Resently the right side has started to intermitently go quite compared to left.
Ive had it looked at by my local repair shop but they cant find the issue
and I ve changed the power tubes on the right side only to see if that sorts it.
I cant find much about the same problem online so I guess its not common.
I recently purchased a Marshall Origin 20 Head and I am experiencing a rattling sound. Could this be the tubes or could it possibly be something else? Is there anything I can check on my own to narrow down the problem?
Can any one suggest what preset and adjustments to get a Tube Screamer sound from my code 50
Thanks in advance
I wanted to change the power tube in my DSL1HR Head. Will it need Re Biasing ? or I can go ahead and just swap the tube and no problems it is good to go.
So I have a 1977 JMP 50 watt 4 hole amp. S# 474j. Model says M2100. I was told when I bought it used it was a special order amp. It was not available at any dealer. It was a 212 combo. I took it out of the combo box and got a mojotone headshell for it. It is all original except for the case/box. It still had Marshall branded pre amp tubes when I got it. It has GE 6550 power tubes. I am thinking of selling it. Does anyone know the value of an amp like this. The Doyle book doesn't talk much about it, he says no bother, very few people will have one. Well I do but don't know anything about it.
So I thank you for the reply. I tried to send pictures to the link in your email but I kept getting them returned. Is there another way to get pictures to you? I tried the insert tab here but it just says link? I am technically challenged, sorry bout that.
Any help would be much appreciated.
My 1974x amp is quiet when nothing is plugged into it, but as soon as I plug my intrument cable into the non-tremolo channel, I get this awful cyclic noise. Does anyone know what to do? I replaced the ECC83 tubes one by one (testing it between each tube replacement), but it didn't fix the problem.
Here's a video of my problem.
Is the DSL5CR Combo cathode bias or will I need to bias the amp after swapping tubes? Pre-amp and power amp tubes? Thanks in advance
Amp is a little over a year old was fine then past few weeks after warmup the volume would dump. All cables, inputs were checked and new JJ tubes put in which seemed like it fixed the issue However when I engaged the Tone Shift button the volume dumped again and when manipulating this button it caused the amp to crackle and seemed to be shorting out the power which intern was dumping the volume.. My tech replaced the Tone Shift curcuit but still when pushing the button in it causes the same issue, we are at a lost..and frustrated...Any Comments or Suggestions greatly appreciated
I have a new Marshall DSL1CR and it make a popping noise when changing channels from the Ultra gain to Classic gain while playing.
If I mute the guitar, or changing channels from the Classic gain to Ultra gain or using the emulated out there is no pop.
There is same noise when switching off it.
Is it normal or somethings wrong with my combo?
Thanks & best regards.
I need a new circuit board for my Marshall 20/40 combo amp. I turn the amp on and it will play for a little while and then all sound ceases until I turn it back on. I've change out tubes to no avail and I broke out my old amp mod equipment and tested circuits. That's the only piece I am unfamiliar with so I'm thinking that's the issue. My vendor tells me they can't order it because the amp is discontinued. Where can I order one so I can fix my amp?
I own both a Stanmore and a Woburn (recently), and I have never had a single issue with either. I've used the Stanmore literally daily for a few years as my main living room speaker for both streaming and AV-vinyl, and the sound and punch are both absolutely incredible. The price you've quoted sounds like a steal, and if it is in good shape I would internet cafe sweepstakes providers snatch that up. You might get the odd pop when it's turned up which can be startling when it happens, but small price to pay for tubes and quality.
I stream mainly from my laptop, and the only thing you may find is that for some reason mobile streaming from Spotify tends to be underpowered for some reason, although I had a similar issue streaming Spotify from my phone to a proper event hall AV system via aux cord so I wouldn't really fault the Stanmore for that.
Ultimately it is incredible sound and to be honest even my Sonos Play:1s have a hard time competing with a single Stanmore. The Sonos provide slightly crisper sound and the stereo is a clear advantage if that's important to you, but the Marshall sound is warm with deep powerful bass that easily makes up for some of the clarity loss (and I really can't stress enough that unless you're an audiophile and actually sit and compare them in an intense back and forth, you would have a hard time deciding which is better - I actually prefer the Stanmore for certain types of music).
I hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions!
I know that turning a "TUBE" amp on without a speaker load on the output will damage the amp.
(the no-load condition will cause the output voltage to increase until the output tubes burn out, which can then lead to other component damage)
Is this also true for a CODE 100 amp? Is there a risk of damage to the output section, with turning the unit on without a speaker cab load connected?
Would it be safe to operate the amp with just headphones connected instead of a speaker cab?
Would it be safe to operate the amp without either a speaker cab or headphones connected?
I ask because my computer (which is a desktop) is in a different location in my house than my amp.
Doing firmware updates or testing out patches requires either moving my computer or my amp, both of which are very inconvenient.
It would be much easier if all I had to move was the head.
I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it .
Currently my JVM410HJS squeals periodically. Initially this would only happen occasionally and I was still able to gig with it, but now it has become to frequent to use. It will do this even if unplugged from a guitar and will do it no matter which channel it is on. Channel switching does not stop it. I am not sure where to start. Am going to change out the tubes and reset the MIDI switch, but otherwise will have to travel a good distance to find a qualified tech. Anyone else ever had this issue?