Questions
Showing results 61 to 80 of 192
0

votes

1

answer

1.5k

views

I have an Origin 20 Combo and I just bought a new set of tubes, and I was wondering if i have to take it to a technician to bias it, or even if it needs to be biased?

THANKS

asked 20 Apr 2020 at 01:21 PM

Dewin Berdejo
0

votes

1

answer

548

views

I had a problem less than a year ago. I heard a light popping sound, then another then no sound. The amp was repaired under warranty.  I was setting up to record. I turned the amp on, tuned up while I wanted for the tubes to warm up and when I brought the amp out of standby I heard that familiar pop. Kind of like a lightbulb popping. I have had tube amps in the past and never had to replace tubes so regularly. Is this an issue with this model Marshall?

asked 20 Apr 2020 at 01:29 AM

Kerry Guillory
0

votes

1

answer

523

views

I have been using my El84 20/20 with a 2x12 1936 cab in stereo for 5 years.

Resently the right side has started to  intermitently  go quite compared to left.

Ive had it looked at by my local repair shop but they cant find the issue

and I ve changed the power tubes on the right side only to see if that sorts it.

It didnt.

I cant find much about the same problem online so I guess its not common.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

asked 27 Mar 2020 at 02:47 PM

Jan Christiansen
0

votes

1

answer

687

views

Hello,

I recently purchased a Marshall Origin 20 Head and I am experiencing a rattling sound. Could this be the tubes or could it possibly be something else? Is there anything I can check on my own to narrow down the problem? 

Thanks,

 

D

asked 05 Mar 2020 at 12:33 AM

Dominic Lippillo
0

votes

1

answer

979

views

Hi

Can any one suggest what preset and adjustments to get a Tube Screamer sound from my code 50

Thanks in advance

asked 04 Mar 2020 at 11:55 AM

martin jones
0

votes

1

answer

1.3k

views

Hi - 

  I wanted to change the power tube in my DSL1HR Head.  Will it need Re Biasing ? or I can go ahead and just swap the tube and no problems it is good to go. 

 

Thank You

edited 05 Feb 2020 at 07:59 PM

Muhammad Ali

asked 05 Feb 2020 at 07:58 PM

Muhammad Ali
0

votes

1

answer

461

views

So I have a 1977 JMP 50 watt 4 hole amp. S# 474j.  Model says M2100. I was told when I bought it used it was a special order amp. It was not available at any dealer. It was a 212 combo. I took it out of the combo box and got a mojotone headshell for it. It is all original except for the case/box. It still had Marshall branded pre amp tubes when I got it. It has GE 6550 power tubes. I am thinking of selling it. Does anyone know the value of an amp like this. The Doyle book doesn't talk much about it, he says no bother, very few people will have one. Well I do but don't know anything about it.  

So I thank you for the reply. I tried to send pictures to the link in your email but I kept getting them returned.  Is there another way to get pictures to you? I tried the insert tab here but it just says link? I am technically challenged,  sorry bout that.

Any help would be much appreciated. 

Erik

5702298697

edited 24 Jan 2020 at 01:09 PM

Erik Valdur

asked 23 Jan 2020 at 08:26 PM

Erik Valdur
0

votes

2

answers

972

views

Hi, can anyone explains to me WHY we can't use a CODE 100H without the cabinet? For VALVE amps there is a good reason for which you need the cabinet always connected but for solid state amps it seems very strange.

Is it maybe an error in the manual? Maybe it's a phrase that has been written for all the Marshall valve heads and it was mistakenly added to the CODE as well?

Please let me know, I have an application where I only need the 100H coming up soon.

Thanks!

asked 23 Dec 2019 at 11:53 PM

Lele X (14)
0

votes

1

answer

629

views

My 1974x amp is quiet when nothing is plugged into it, but as soon as I plug my intrument cable into the non-tremolo channel, I get this awful cyclic noise.  Does anyone know what to do?   I replaced the ECC83 tubes one by one (testing it between each tube replacement), but it didn't fix the problem.

Here's a video of my problem.

https://youtu.be/lN_lhUAu7jA

 

asked 19 Dec 2019 at 11:10 PM

Brandon Isaak
0

votes

2

answers

696

views

I have a JVM215C and the other day I was experiencing some issues. I thought it might be power tube related so I re-seated the power tubes but that did not help and the amp was still making a high-pitched squeal. The squeal would come and go but other last 3 days, it was pretty consistanct. I also noticed that the amp at times would go from a muddy-low powered sound to a more clean, high powered sound. I then removed the head from the combo so I could test the bias of the tubes. For one side, I get 33 but for the other, it will not register. The amp has not made the squealing sound today so I wondering if maybe the tube for that one socket is dead (although it appears to have power to it -- and its not white). Can someone let me know if a faulty power tube could make one side of the bias terminals not register?
 
thanks!
 
joe...
 

asked 16 Dec 2019 at 05:46 PM

Joe Bozen
0

votes

0

answers

938

views

Hello I'm considering to buy DSL1HR or CR for silent recording at home. But I would like to use fx loop SEND output to record raw valve soud to apply impulse response later.

 

Is it safe to unplug cabinet, and without connecting headphones use these amps in such manner? 

And if so, why? Usually valve amp needs speaker load

 

Thank you in advance for the answare!

Sergey

asked 04 Dec 2019 at 12:44 PM

Sergey Tereshkin
0

votes

1

answer

1.5k

views

Is the DSL5CR Combo cathode bias or will I need to bias the amp after swapping tubes? Pre-amp and power amp tubes? Thanks in advance

 

asked 04 Dec 2019 at 02:04 AM

tom zenner
0

votes

2

answers

607

views

Amp is a little over a year old was fine then past few weeks after warmup the volume would dump. All cables, inputs were checked and new JJ tubes put in which seemed like it fixed the issue However when I engaged the Tone Shift button the volume dumped again and when manipulating this button it caused the amp to crackle and seemed to be shorting out the power which intern was dumping the volume.. My tech replaced the Tone Shift curcuit but still when pushing the button in it causes the same issue, we are at a lost..and frustrated...Any Comments or Suggestions greatly appreciated

asked 16 Nov 2019 at 06:23 PM

Stephen McCarron
0

votes

2

answers

945

views

Dear,


I have a new Marshall DSL1CR and it make a popping noise when changing channels from the Ultra gain to Classic gain while playing.

If I mute the guitar, or changing channels from the Classic gain to Ultra gain or using the emulated out there is no pop.

There is same noise when switching off it.

Is it normal or somethings wrong with my combo?

Thanks & best regards.

asked 16 Nov 2019 at 02:29 PM

József Szekeres
0

votes

1

answer

490

views

I need a new circuit board for my Marshall 20/40 combo amp. I turn the amp on and it will play for a little while and then all sound ceases until I turn it back on. I've change out tubes to no avail and I broke out my old amp mod equipment and tested circuits. That's the only piece I am unfamiliar with so I'm thinking that's the issue. My vendor tells me they can't order it because the amp is discontinued. Where can I order one so I can fix my amp?

asked 15 Nov 2019 at 05:22 PM

Jeffrey Johnson
0

votes

0

answers

496

views

Hello everyone,,

I own both a Stanmore and a Woburn (recently), and I have never had a single issue with either. I've used the Stanmore literally daily for a few years as my main living room speaker for both streaming and AV-vinyl, and the sound and punch are both absolutely incredible. The price you've quoted sounds like a steal, and if it is in good shape I would internet cafe sweepstakes providers snatch that up. You might get the odd pop when it's turned up which can be startling when it happens, but small price to pay for tubes and quality.

I stream mainly from my laptop, and the only thing you may find is that for some reason mobile streaming from Spotify tends to be underpowered for some reason, although I had a similar issue streaming Spotify from my phone to a proper event hall AV system via aux cord so I wouldn't really fault the Stanmore for that.

Ultimately it is incredible sound and to be honest even my Sonos Play:1s have a hard time competing with a single Stanmore. The Sonos provide slightly crisper sound and the stereo is a clear advantage if that's important to you, but the Marshall sound is warm with deep powerful bass that easily makes up for some of the clarity loss (and I really can't stress enough that unless you're an audiophile and actually sit and compare them in an intense back and forth, you would have a hard time deciding which is better - I actually prefer the Stanmore for certain types of music).

I hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions!

 

edited 19 Aug 2019 at 09:45 PM

Berlin Khan

asked 18 Aug 2019 at 06:38 PM

Berlin Khan
0

votes

2

answers

497

views

Dear, 
I have a Marshall DSL40CR here with crackling/popping noise, I have already checked the tubes in a Hickok TV2C tube tester, and they are good. 
The master1 and master2 are closed. I realized that when I removed the Valve 4 the noise would stopping. So I searched around v4, and noted that the noise comes from resonance circuit, if I removing C138 the noise stopping, above this capacitor there are 105V, I swapped to 10uf/160V but the problem is the same, could you help me, please ?
Thanks & best regards. 

 

asked 30 Jul 2019 at 06:10 PM

Geovane Zimermann
0

votes

1

answer

742

views

I know that turning a "TUBE" amp on without a speaker load on the output will damage the amp.

(the no-load condition will cause the output voltage to increase until the output tubes burn out, which can then lead to other component  damage)

 

Is this also true for a CODE 100 amp?  Is there a risk of damage to the output section, with turning the unit on without a speaker cab load connected?

Would it be safe to operate the amp with just headphones connected instead of a speaker cab?

Would it be safe to operate the amp without either a speaker cab or headphones connected?

I ask because my computer (which is a desktop) is in a different location in my house than my amp.

Doing firmware updates or testing out patches requires either moving my computer or my amp, both of which are very inconvenient.

It would be much easier if all I had to move was the head.

 

asked 09 Jul 2019 at 01:42 PM

A. Todd Henker
0

votes

1

answer

989

views

Hello

I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it .

thanks

iosman

edited 06 Aug 2019 at 07:59 AM

ios man

asked 07 Jul 2019 at 06:13 AM

ios man
0

votes

2

answers

656

views

I have a bunch of Marshall amps and recently added a Code 100H to my collection.

I'd like to connect it to a JMD1 102, in order to use it as a valve power amp and cab for the Code as a preamp. I usually do it on my other amps by connecting the send from the "preamp" to the return of the "power amp", but in this case it didn't work, the only way to get some sound from it was connecting the headphones output to the input of the JMD1, but that's not what I expect once I have another preamp in the chain. Did anyone tried something similar?

asked 02 Jul 2019 at 04:55 AM

Daniel Custodio
Showing results 61 to 80 of 192
Loading - please wait...