I recently acquired an Origin 50c. I love this amp and am very happy with it. I have been looking for info regarding tube replacement. I have found several places that indicate the Origin 20 is self biasing, but have seen conflicting info on the 50c.  Does the 50c need rebiasing when replacing tubes?

Thank you

Hello,

I have a DSL15 that is humming a 120 Hz tone, even with all controls down. This tells me the trouble is in the power section. I checked the bias voltage of both 6V6 tubes, and they are there. However, when I checked the voltage across the plate current sensing resistors, one is around 24 mV, and the other is virtually zero. I swapped the tubes, and the voltage values on the resistors went the other way round. It looks I have a bad 6V6 tube, but I'dlike to confirm before I go buying a new one. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Hello everyone i hope your all doing well

I recently we are talking the last 4 days purchesed my dream amp a marshall DSL100HR. I was very excited to finally be able to get my hands on a marshall super lead series amp. The dream has become a bit of a nightmare as currently i am the proud owner of a fancy paper weight. I handled the amp head with extreme care when i got it. I let it acclimate to my house temp befor even taking it out of the shipping packiging then when i did i was baby gental in doing so i set it up correctly and double checked so befor even powering up the amp. When i did power on the amp i let the tubes warm up like i read to do so i did this for 15m when i switched the amp to power low mode on i think that its 50watt in that mode. I heard a loud pop pop pop buzz and everything died the amp became unresponsive and the only thing that seemed to be working was that the tubes were lighting up properly and i could run the amp in standby thats it. the front panel was dead the foot switch was dead but the amp could still power on does anybody know what the hell happand ?

what did i do wrong did i just get a lemon ?

is this common with this amp range ? 

I am not rich it took a lot of financial planning to be able to afford this amp i am so bummed out. I did speak to the place i bought it from and there sending me a return label and when they get it they will ship a new DSL to me but this whole situation sucks. Thanks for any insite and help i wish everyone well !

(update) I got the return label sent the amp head back there processing a new DSL100HR order for me i wont get it till tuesday/wensday hope the one they send me works ! If the new DSL100HR also has issues i will most likely swear off tube amps forever not at all pleased with my initial experience at all.

(update 2) I have the new DSL100HR and this one works so i guess i got a lemon befor all is well now enjoy your lives people stay metal ! stay rock and roll ! most important stay safe out there !

Hi everyone :) 

I'm a total beginner when it comes to tube amps as it's my very first one.

I've got that weird feeling that something is wrong with my Origin 20C, when I push the gain to its max I don't get that sexy crunchy tone.

I can see the lights of all the 3 preamp and power tubes through the grid. 

If one of them was dead It shouldn't be lightened at all right ?

I thought I had to wait for 30s before pushing the master and play but saw later on the notice that they recommend to do it 2 minutes after turning amp on.

Plus, one our two times and used to transistors amps, I didn't wait at all. Could it caused the issue?

I don't hear any particular cracks, just a bit of white noise when I push it all up

Thanks you all !! 

Just realised the classic gain channel (clean) is louder than the ultra gain channel on my amp. Is this normal? This is with both channels being set the same. Also the preamp tube for the classic gain channel is very dim to the point it's hard to see it lighting up! This is my first tube amp so I'm pretty clueless. 

I'm getting the impression, the tech I'm dealing with thinks I or my settings could be the cause, due to the fact I guess this is the second time within a year I've had this problem. I don't push the amp hard. It's in a 10 x10 room I converted to a studio for recording. Maybe you would be so kind as to help me again. My current settings for volume are:
Overdrive channel Gain is @ 2 Volume is at 75%. On the clean/crunch channel the gain is at 8 and the volume at 75%. The masters are both at about 2. This gives me a good tone at a low volume. In the small room, it's in turning the masters up even to just 5 would require ear protection.
The question is are theses settings pushing the power or preamp tubes to the point that would shorten their lifespan?

I have an Origin 20 Combo and I just bought a new set of tubes, and I was wondering if i have to take it to a technician to bias it, or even if it needs to be biased?

THANKS

I had a problem less than a year ago. I heard a light popping sound, then another then no sound. The amp was repaired under warranty.  I was setting up to record. I turned the amp on, tuned up while I wanted for the tubes to warm up and when I brought the amp out of standby I heard that familiar pop. Kind of like a lightbulb popping. I have had tube amps in the past and never had to replace tubes so regularly. Is this an issue with this model Marshall?

I have been using my El84 20/20 with a 2x12 1936 cab in stereo for 5 years.

Resently the right side has started to  intermitently  go quite compared to left.

Ive had it looked at by my local repair shop but they cant find the issue

and I ve changed the power tubes on the right side only to see if that sorts it.

It didnt.

I cant find much about the same problem online so I guess its not common.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Hello,

I recently purchased a Marshall Origin 20 Head and I am experiencing a rattling sound. Could this be the tubes or could it possibly be something else? Is there anything I can check on my own to narrow down the problem? 

Thanks,

D

Hi

Can any one suggest what preset and adjustments to get a Tube Screamer sound from my code 50

Thanks in advance

Hi - 

  I wanted to change the power tube in my DSL1HR Head.  Will it need Re Biasing ? or I can go ahead and just swap the tube and no problems it is good to go. 

Thank You

So I have a 1977 JMP 50 watt 4 hole amp. S# 474j.  Model says M2100. I was told when I bought it used it was a special order amp. It was not available at any dealer. It was a 212 combo. I took it out of the combo box and got a mojotone headshell for it. It is all original except for the case/box. It still had Marshall branded pre amp tubes when I got it. It has GE 6550 power tubes. I am thinking of selling it. Does anyone know the value of an amp like this. The Doyle book doesn't talk much about it, he says no bother, very few people will have one. Well I do but don't know anything about it.  

So I thank you for the reply. I tried to send pictures to the link in your email but I kept getting them returned.  Is there another way to get pictures to you? I tried the insert tab here but it just says link? I am technically challenged,  sorry bout that.

Any help would be much appreciated. 

Erik

5702298697

Hi, can anyone explains to me WHY we can't use a CODE 100H without the cabinet? For VALVE amps there is a good reason for which you need the cabinet always connected but for solid state amps it seems very strange.

Is it maybe an error in the manual? Maybe it's a phrase that has been written for all the Marshall valve heads and it was mistakenly added to the CODE as well?

Please let me know, I have an application where I only need the 100H coming up soon.

Thanks!

My 1974x amp is quiet when nothing is plugged into it, but as soon as I plug my intrument cable into the non-tremolo channel, I get this awful cyclic noise.  Does anyone know what to do?   I replaced the ECC83 tubes one by one (testing it between each tube replacement), but it didn't fix the problem.

Here's a video of my problem.

https://youtu.be/lN_lhUAu7jA

Hello I'm considering to buy DSL1HR or CR for silent recording at home. But I would like to use fx loop SEND output to record raw valve soud to apply impulse response later.

Is it safe to unplug cabinet, and without connecting headphones use these amps in such manner? 

And if so, why? Usually valve amp needs speaker load

Thank you in advance for the answare!

Sergey

Is the DSL5CR Combo cathode bias or will I need to bias the amp after swapping tubes? Pre-amp and power amp tubes? Thanks in advance

Amp is a little over a year old was fine then past few weeks after warmup the volume would dump. All cables, inputs were checked and new JJ tubes put in which seemed like it fixed the issue However when I engaged the Tone Shift button the volume dumped again and when manipulating this button it caused the amp to crackle and seemed to be shorting out the power which intern was dumping the volume.. My tech replaced the Tone Shift curcuit but still when pushing the button in it causes the same issue, we are at a lost..and frustrated...Any Comments or Suggestions greatly appreciated

Dear,

I have a new Marshall DSL1CR and it make a popping noise when changing channels from the Ultra gain to Classic gain while playing.

If I mute the guitar, or changing channels from the Classic gain to Ultra gain or using the emulated out there is no pop.

There is same noise when switching off it.

Is it normal or somethings wrong with my combo?

Thanks & best regards.