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Showing results 101 to 120 of 171
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hi everyone, i have a CODE 50 and the biggest complaint i have is finding a preset that allows the amp to be "sensitive" to the controls on my guitars.

you know with any halfway decent tube amp you can ride the volume knob on the guitar to not only turn down (attenuate) the volume but actually change the tone. i know most people use what i call "help me box's" to do this, however, i never use those things. my question is, does anyone know a preset that i can program that will achieve this?

the basic sound would be any Fender or Marshall.

i look forward to anything you all have to say,

thanks,JP

asked 18 May 2019 at 03:39 PM

joey pinter-bilek (1)
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Hey everyone,

I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a new piece of gear I purchased. I recently bought a used Marshall DSL40CR that was running fine, but just tonight the High channel stopped working. Low is perfectly fine, but Highstarted having a  heavily muddied sound and now I'm hearing nothing out of it. All tubes are glowing, but I figured I'd seek out some sage advice before taking things apart and potentially making things worse.

Thanks!

asked 06 Apr 2019 at 12:41 AM

Andrew Cassidy
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Hi 

I have a TSL 100 that gives low output on crunch and lead channel. (no tube problems)

I´ve seen that this problem is common. Do you have a suggestion what could be wrong?

I suspect one of the J-Fet switches are faulty but I can´t locate any faulty ones?

(I do amp service part time)

 

Regards / Lars

 

asked 23 Mar 2019 at 08:03 PM

Lars Karlsson
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My J60 tube amp made a loud POP while jamming. All the tubes are secure and lit up, and the fuse still looks good. The amp isn’t making any sound at all though. Any suggestions on what might be the problem?

asked 21 Mar 2019 at 12:43 PM

Zachary Daniels
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High, first off, I am new to the modeling world, my main rig is peavey and Line6 DT25 tube rigs.

I bought a Code 50 as a quick and reliable solid state backup/practice amp to gig with if needed.

I love the sounds of it but at times the BASS just takes over even when Bass knob is rolled to

zero. no matter what settings i use the Bass is booming. I am thinking of a speaker upgrade

possibly but is there any advice on settings that may help me pull the mid range out more. I 

use Super Cleans and Gritty Gains. Hard Rock/Metal sounds

 

Wes

asked 13 Mar 2019 at 04:12 PM

Wes Eubanks
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I recently bought a new DSL40CR. Great sounding amp! Great tones! I am noticing that the low end sounds a bit flubby. I was reading in some forums that this can be caused by improperly adjusted BIAS. Can anyone direct me as to what the mV for each left and right tubes should be set to?

asked 06 Mar 2019 at 06:41 PM

Todd Lampron
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3

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Hello Group! I am about to receive my new Marshall Origin 50 watt head on Monday (March 5th). I'm excited as hell! I was looking for a 50 watt platform to go through my hand made Tweed 1X12 cab with a EVM12L that I built three years ago. I just had a bad expierience buying a Fender Bandmaster VM with a blown digital effects board. The repair facility could not obtain this part from anywhere. I wound up returning it to Reverb.com and was out all the repair money, two 5 hour round trips and $55 to ship it back. I was really devistated until (by accident) I stumbled onto this Origin series amp. I owned a few Marshalls in my day but this one really caught my eye. My question to you guys is this; normally amps come through with pretty basic tubes. I have no idea what the Origin comes with as far as stock tubes. Being the perfectionist that I am and the gear freak I've always been, I'm already wanting to upgrade the 12AX7's (EC83s) and the EL34s. Any suggestions as to a good upgrade or are the stock tubes pretty good? Thanks guys (and gals)

asked 01 Mar 2019 at 12:23 AM

Lonnie Perry (1)
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Hi guys,

I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it...

asked 10 Feb 2019 at 04:21 PM

Stepan Dusek
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I recently purchased the JVM210C amp, to replace a VS100. I turned it on the other day and heard a low hissing noise, which ended with a pop (volume hasn't been above 2 or 3 yet on any channel), and now there is no output. The amp still has power (power rocker, mode buttons, footswitch LEDs, tubes all light up ) My first thought is that one of the tubes failed, but could it have been a fuse? I've only had the amp for a month, so I'm struggling with what could be the issue. Any help is appreciated. 

asked 21 Jan 2019 at 06:47 PM

Dan O'Rawe
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I'm not looking for that tube sound, I'm looking for that ultra sparkling clean, loud, solid state sound. can anyone recommend an amp to me, either old or new https://waveadvice.com/tube-amp-heads-buyers-guide/ ?

thanks

edited 14 Jan 2019 at 06:44 AM

Gaspar Molenie

asked 10 Jan 2019 at 09:42 AM

Gaspar Molenie
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Hello, I recently acquired a vs100 head and it has a lot of weird noise going on. I'm guessing it's down to the preamptube and I'm going to replace it when I get cash for a tube and if that fails I know a good place to get it serviced. What I really need help with is finding a  4x12 cab that goes well with the head. I want to get a good heavy sound going, I'm going to be using it to play doom metal mainly so if anyone has any suggestions. I would prefere a marshall cab and I've been looking at the 1960A, 1960B and 1960BV but can't really decide from what I have been able to google. There are no stores near me where I can try any cabs out either so I'm a bit stranded right now.

/Joachim

asked 08 Jan 2019 at 04:43 PM

Joachim Eversholt
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2

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Hi there.  I am not a native but I hope you'll be able to get me right.I have been using Dsl 15c for about 2 years and all of a sudden the amp stoped producing any sound. All controls freeze, footswitch is non responsive. Led’s and tubes are still lit. No pedals in line. I turn power switch off then on and hear sound like a relay click in the background and then sound immediately cuts out.  My tech told me the problem is 99% in the microcontroller AT2313 because inside all fuses are still intact.  He was able to read the code and fix errors that cut the sound out. However, it did not help because some of microcontroller ports were damaged(most likely it was a factory defect). Is it possible to re-record the code to new microcontroller or maybe there are some other options to consider?

Thanx.

asked 03 Jan 2019 at 03:29 PM

Alexandr Forrest
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I'm using a Origin 50 combo. I find when I crank the master volume and play at higher volumes, I get what sounds like glassy tube rattle. There is also just generally more noise than I would expect. I tried it with a different cabinet. It seems to be worst when using the internal speaker or when the amp is sitting on top of the external cabinet... my assumption is that the physical vibrations due to high volume are causing the tubes to rattle. The rattling is getting passed through the speaker, meaning that it is not just simply a physical rattle, but it is a transferred into the signal.

It sounds similar to some of the problems on the internet with the Class 5 that had rattling. Someone suggested that tube rings would fix it. Any suggestions?

asked 27 Dec 2018 at 08:29 PM

Chris Holtmeier (1)
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Does changing from one wattage to another while the amp is on cause any problems?

It doesn't seem to cause any audio issues besides the obvious change in volume - but will it hurt the lifespan of the tubes or damage any components?

So what's the rule? Choose power level before turning on? Turn down the master volume before changing power levels? Or does it make zero difference?

asked 10 Dec 2018 at 07:45 AM

Tom LeBlanc (1)
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I have a marshall dsl 100 head,I have a problem of no sound, the power supply is working fine,all valve tubes are working as well ,so I'm wondering what is the problem.

asked 03 Dec 2018 at 09:21 PM

Matthew Johnson
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Is it possible to play two different tube amp heads at the same time out of one 1960a cab?  Mine has the switch on the back to make the cab run in stereo mode and I was curious if it would be possible to use both inputs for independent heads.  Of course the impedance would have to be matched (8 ohm - 8 ohm), but I have no idea if it would handle the amp load properly or not.  Trying to find out for sure so I can avoid breaking something if it's not possible.

asked 01 Nov 2018 at 03:35 PM

Ethan Kiefer
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I have a question about my DSL5CR Classic Gain channel. I replaced the stock power tube with a 12BH7A-STR-TAD and replaced the stock pre-amp tubes with Genalex Gold Lion ECC83/12AX7 tubes. I biassed to 100mV. I now have no discernible gain in the clean channel. I can alter the volume, but even at full gain and full volume the tone is pure clean. Did I clean it up too much or is this normal?

asked 29 Oct 2018 at 12:32 PM

Steve Perfect
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Hello...I have a marshall dsl 100 and also dsl 40 C amp, need to change power tubes EL34, the ones I bought is JJ with 8 pins only, while the factory set tubes have 9 pin. Is there any issue using either of these?

asked 28 Oct 2018 at 05:29 AM

AXL Rose
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Hello,

I've noticed that there is rattling/jangling coming from the amp (not the speaker) when playing notes between low  A and C and their respective octaves above. It sounds like it is coming from the EL34 valves - is this due to the way that they are mounted without spring dampers? They have not gone microphonic as far as I can tell, and are otherwise performing as expected, so I feel this is more a mechanical issue with the chassis/mounting, or it's just an undesirable characteristic of the valves themselves. What I'd ideally like to know is, do all Origin 20Cs do this or is this the first anyone has heard about this?

I've removed every external variable there could be, moving the amp to another location and isolating it from floor vibrations in the studio. I've taken the 'amp' out of the cabinet so that I could lightly tap the valves, and check the screws around the supports are not loose. You can generate the rattle (or very similar) just by tapping lightly with the handle of a screwdriver, on both valves. This is what I was expecting if it was just physical vibrations from the speaker causing them to rattle in sypmathy. The rattling sound does not get amplified, so it's not in the audio path.

It's enough to be offputting when tracking/practicing in the studio unless pushing out really high volume so that you can only hear the guitar. I play fairly clean a lot of the time so it is more obvious under those conditions.

Would really appreciate some advice. If the answer is, "It's the same for all and there's not much that can be done..." then ok, I just need to know. That said, I spotted there was some sort of similar issue perhaps on Class 5 amps that a kit was developed for to resolve? I may have misunderstood though.

If there is any further mechanical troubleshooting to be done then please let me know. I wouldn't want to void the warranty status if possible. For what it's worth, I'm a systems and support engineer for a large format mixing console company, so I'm competent enough to poke around as required... just figured someone may have alreday solved this one before I carry on!

Kind regards,

Ed

 

edited 09 Sep 2018 at 11:28 AM

Edward Arnold (1)

asked 09 Sep 2018 at 11:27 AM

Edward Arnold (1)
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I have had this amp for a few months and still can't seem to dial in a good sound. It is my first Marshall and first tube amp. I have looked on-line for settings to no avail. This also has the upgraded Creamback speaker from Sweetwater.

I use this mostly at home and am looking for a good clean tone and a good distorted tone.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. I use the 20 watt setting.

 

Thanks

asked 28 Aug 2018 at 07:21 PM

Peter Schwotzer
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