I was able to bluetooth my IPod with the CODE amp, but it doens't work on Marshall Gateway.

I tried to connect them doing this way : Menu - Touch bluetooth icon. 

I'm actually connected with my CODE amp, but this app couldn't detect the thing, saying 'Not connected'.

I scanned few times, so that my IPod can detect amp, but it didn't work.

I'm asking for help :(.. 

First of, I’m very pleased with my Code25...its overdriven/distorted presets, like the Sweet Jubilee, made me rethink my tone preferences and I’ve even played pub gigs without ever needing to go over Master volume 5!

Now, what would really help me make it my go-to gig amp is figuring out why I can’t use a pedal (like the TC Spark or EHX Soul Food) to boost the volume of dirty presets. I experimented with the clean “So American” preset and the volume boost is noticeable, but when trying on dirty presets, the tone changes, but volume remains constant. I noticed the same thing with the amp’s own preFx section...the overdrive/distortion or compressor levels don’t really make a difference in the overall volume.

Thanks in advance for the support!

Hi.

Please could you tell me which of the wires in the pic. below are carrying the audio to the POWER AMP board on a CODE25 (red, yellow, or blue block)???

Regards,

Dale.

I've noticed that my amp makes a fizz noise in any volume even without any cables pluged in.

Another people here already complain about this issue, it seems like a design problem.

Is there a way to solve that?

Thank you.

I download the app open it and in a micro second it says "app keeps stopping" .pixel 2XL android ver 9. cleared cache etc re install , never works . have tons of space available on phone,,,,, so is there a list of phones that do or do not work ?

Hello, 

I'm about to buy DSL20CR, I'd like to verify that my Line6 helix can switch channels and enable / disable fx loop of that amp.

In Helix manual is said: "IMPORTANT! Connect EXT AMP 1/2 only to amplifiers that utilize "short-to-sleeve" footswitch inputs. Connecting to any other sort of input could cause permanent damage to both your amp and Helix! If you're not sure if your amp has short-to-sleeve inputs, contact the manufacturer."

Is this ok with DSL20CR?

br, 

Martti

I've been playing Marshall amps for years now and I've bought new and used, traded for them, traded them away for other stuff, and Marshall USED TO SUPPORT us out here in the REAL WORLD that keep their amps going and keep playing them by making the owners manuals available on the website and making the website easy to navigate but now it is a complete disgrace!!!!!  How F***ing hard is it to keep the owners manuals linked to an easy to locate section UNDER what USED TO BE CALLED "SUPPORT"!!!  It is not very hard at all.  The only manuals I can navigate to are the CODE amps.  You should be proud to support your vintage amps and keep the manuals fully available online for your time honored and time tested LOYAL CUSTOMERS who continue to use Vintage or Older Model Marshall Amps.  Your Website sucks now and is extremely limited.  I realize you want to keep your current products out there and is no way you can continue to host all of your product specs and info on so many models over the years, but YOU COULD continue to maintain the ONE page in a SUPPORT section that details where to download your DISCONTINUED PRODUCTS and simply throw all of those PDF files into a folder and link it to your SUPPORT page so we can continue to download the manuals easily ourselves without any assistance from you guys.  It doesn't take up that much disk space and is not very hard at all to encode that back into your page.  I am SURE that I am not the only one here that is completely frustrated that Marshall Customer Support appears to have gone to hell and you don't seem to care about your customers any longer or you want to SELL us a manual to get more money out of us.  This is CRAP!  You need to FIX THIS and I guarantee you that Millions of Marshall USERS will thank you!  Let's get back to putting the Customer FIRST folks!  

Anyone know what the V and  stand for in this Marshall DSL 100H Amp serial number 'V-####-##-####-H' what do the V and H stand for ?

Thanks

Richard

Will Marshall provide a way to increase the headphone volume as is very low against all other devices we use such as iPhones, PC DAWS etc, so makes it very difficult to practice without disturbing the household and neighbours...

Will Marshall add user memory slots, as are available on other modelling amps, so we can keep the presets rather than having to choose to overwrite them with our own.

hello, i'm a code user (25 watts) and i have to say that is a great amp for clean tones and crunch also. But when you try to create a hi gain tone there are some frequencies that ruin your sound, and this make me think that these unit need an eq effect or block to reach a tone with more precision. will marshall still have plans for the code line?  will you release a new update ? i hope that marshall enginners listen my petition

pd: the eq knobs in the amp doesn't help 

greetings!!!

Hey there! I have just acquired a DSL 401 and am searching for a manual.  Anyone have an idea of where I might find one? Thanks.

I broke out my old mg 30dfx and bought the PEDL-90008 for it but nothing happens when I plug it in. Is that the correct footswitch for my amp?

Why does Origin 50h not have a standby switch?

One of the most potentially apepaling feature of the CODE amp system, the ability to change and store settings with bluetooth technology from my iphone, simply does not work. How does this sor tof problem reach ghe masrket in the first place. And MArshall's response, "We're working on it" for over a year is not reassuring.

Marshall:  How about an honest response like, "it can't be fixed" or "an update will be launched in the next 30 days" ?

I was trying to jam along with youtube so I plugged in my iPad to the "audio in" input of the amp.

Volume of the iPad is cranked to max.

I noticed that the iPad can only be heard when the volume of each channel are turned up.

Problem is, especially in Ultra Gain Channel, the iPad will not be heard until the volume of the channel is set to pretty high (pass 9 o'clock), meanwhile, my guitar sound will be very LOUD that will cover the jamming track and also cause serious air to my neighbour (basically I only hear my guitar and cannot hear the iPad which is connected to the amp throught the "audio in" input).

Solution to the above is very much appreciated.

Does the programmable footswitch have tap delay capabilities? If not, how can I achieve that?

Does anyone know the value of the power transformer for a MG30CFX? Cheers.

Hello. I have a Code 50, and I found a DSL100H and a 1960 cab on craigslist yestarday for a good price so I snached them up!

So what Im planning to do is get an 1/8 to 1/4 adaptor and using the headphone out jack from the Code 50 as a effects brick for the DSL100 as the 50 has no out jacks other than the headphone one. Itll be a few days before the adaptor arrives so I thought Id ask how well this will work so Im not so disappointed, lol.

Ive done this before hundreds of times with non tube amps, but I dont want to blow up my new babys tubes.

Ive only had the code for about a month or so. If this doesnt work, Im planning on trading the Code in for a rack effects brick. Or mayber getting a mixer and routing the USB output that way..

Advice?

Thanks!

I purchased an AS50D amp a while ago, and while I've otherwise been extremely happy with it, when it arrived the caps fell off many of the knobs, which is obviously annoying since I can't see what the current settings are.

I contacted the (Swiss, German-speaking) vendor, who contacted Marshall, and they shipped me a baggy of replacement knobs.

Naively it appears that I should be able to pull the old knobs off and push these on (as I see no evidence of a set-screw anywhere). However, applying reasonable force with my hand or even prying with a screwdriver, I can't get the old knobs to come off. I don't want to risk applying a large force until I'm more confident that I'm following the correct procedure and won't break anything. 

So, my questions are

- are these in fact the correct replacement knobs?

- what is the recommended procedure to replace the knobs?

- if I am supposed to simply pull the old knobs off, should I expect to apply a lot of force?

- if not and these are the correct knobs, what is the recommended procedure to replace the knobs?