Hello,

I own a 50w vintage modern 2266 head and 425A cabinet and I am not sure how to connect the two, meaning not sure which ohm setting I should be using as well as understanding the difference between using the mono and stereo switch.

I tried reading the manual but could not find my answer.

Can someone assist? Thank you!

OK so I recently purchased a Digitech DROP pedal so I can drop tune without having to switch guitars while playing in rehearsal. I knew there wasn't a lot of info on pedals with the CODE so I bit the bullet and bought the pedal. It seems to work just fine drop tuning, and the octave feature sounds great. But I notice a bit of double-tracking on the G string or when you try to do bends- in other words, I am hearing the true note int eh background along with the drop tuned note. It tends to be distracting a bit, but it's liveable. I have the guitar going directly into the pedal and then a short cable from the pedal out into the line in on the amp. I don't know if this is a pedal issue or the fact I am using an edited bank with presets and processing the signal PRE input as opposed to an effects loop. I know I could probably try a dry signal preset and eliminate it, but I have no fuzz pedal to use in conjunction with it...O'm hoping I don't need to buy a dedicated pedalboard AGAIN and feed the pedals through to a dry amp preset in order to elimiante issues...especially if I have to play live. That's kind of why I went to the CODE 50 to begin with. Anyone have any input on this topic? It seems a bit lacking in teh community...

UPDATE:

Never mind- found out it was on my end. Mods can delete this post.

Hello! 

After a lot of searching, I was able to find a used DSL 1w  head. I experimented with some tube rolling, and in the process misplaced the screws for the metal backplace for the amp. Does anyone know what type of screw was used or where we could get replacements? 

Is it possible to convert the parallel FX loop I have on the TSL 602 to serial. The parallel loop is rather unusable to me. For time based effects (chorus, delay) the parallel loop gives me too much unusable phased feedback, sounds like a helicopter. I am skilled with a soldering iron just need procedure on how to perform the mod. Thanks,

Morgan

Headphones worn 5 times, the gold R and L headband plugs are broken. I can't wear the headphones. Can I buy it somewhere and what is it professionally called?

I recently purchased a lightly used origin 20 combo. A very impressive amp! Until i plugged in an external cab. I used jack #2 for a single 8 ohm cab and it worked fine. However, the combo speaker will not come on. I tried jack #3 with the same result. After some internet research i discovered that this is a common issue and can be easily fixed. 

Can anyone tell me what the issue is and how to fix it? This is a wonderful amp and i would lole to take full advantage of its options.

Hi,

Just purchased 1959HW, but I can see the settings behind the head. I usually encouter 240V main. Does this negatively impact the amp? Do I need to use Variac to dial down to 230V?

Thanks,

Murat

I bought a "scratch and dent" DSL40CR from Musician's Friend. When it arrived, it was awesome! The only issues it had were cosmetic and it was missing a footswitch.

Fast forward two weeks later and one day I'm playing and the volume drops and there is distortion even on the clean channel. I took off the back panel and saw that one of the power tubes was not lighting up. I contacted a local repair shop and they said it was likely the tubes. When I checked the bias the power tube that was working was around 35 and the one that was not was around 0. Since I thought the issue was likely related to the power tubes, I asked Musician's Friend if they would send me some replacement ones since I was withing th 45 day return period and they did.

Well, the new tubes arrived (Ruby EL34s) and I installed them and rebiased after leaving the amp on for several minutes. Both power tubes lit up, but I still have the same issue. I'm pretty bummed because I really liked this amp and now I'm worried it's just not built very well.

On a related note: the power tubes that came with my used DSL40CR were TAD EL34-STD Red Caps; are these are not the stock tubes that come with this unit? I'm wondering if maybe the previous owner had tried to mod this amp and did something to the circuit board or something?

One other thing: I plugged in my Orange Crush Mini into the Marshall and the speaker works just fine, sounds great even! So it's not an issue with a blown speaker, it's something with the electronics would be my guess.

Where is the serial # on the Emberton II? 

I have tried them all to no avail on the warranty registration page.

i just want to find the full manual, but after i check all the web pages, i still couldn't find it. Help me please.

Hello folks,

I fiilishly messed up the input jack on my MG15CFX by tripping over the cable, and I'm not sure what the correct part to replace it with. I think I could do the soldering myself if necessary, although having the full assembly with the little curcuit board already attached would be best.

Meanwhile I'm tempted to remove the little plastic cover and see if I can bend the contacts back into shape. Has anyone ever tried that?

Hi ! The on/off neon switch on my new 2525c  silver jubilee studio combo stays on in the off position it's very strange ? Everything else is working as it should ! Any ideas ? Thankyou.

Hello! As stated in the title when I run my emulated out into my SSL2 audio interface using the line level setting and the hi-z setting as recommended in the SSL2 manual, with the channel volume on the interface all the way down the meter is in the yellow and even on the clean channel on the head if I strum hard I get lots of fizz and crackle. This happens both on the 1W and .1W settings. The distortion channel of the amp sounds great, but the background crackle and fuzz comes through both on my monitoriing channel on the interface and my DAW.  This happens on both input channels on my interface. Even if I deselect the Hi-z and line level inputs and turn the volume way up to where I can barely hear the guitar, I get crackle when I strum.

My questions are: is there something I can do to chill this really hot signal out? Or is something wrong with my amplifier and it requires service?

Further info: I bought this amp used from guitar center online and don't know it's actual age, although it looks and feels nearly brand new.

Thank you for your time!

Recently updated the firmware for my code 50 and it stopped short of complete firmware installation when I received a pop-up to restart the installation. The amp is stuck at ready to update but now the firmware won't install again. Tried a factory reset but now the amp will say USB not connected...until I reconnect....then it will read... ready for update. Itried on Mac IOS Sonoma 14.5 with Crome 126.0.6478.57, PC windows 10  with Crome 126.0.6478.57 and the issue remains. Which won't update anymore or resume where it left off. Can I get the original firmware or another way to factory reset? Buttons doesn´t  work.

I saw many others hade the same problem but i haven't see no solution from Marshall yet, already re-install the firmware, nothing change it works for some minuts then sounds stop, i turn off/on and sounds get back....
The shop where it was buyed have closed definitively, although it is still under warranty.
What can i do please?

Hi

I've just bought two used 6100LE Gold amp heads and the certificates are lost or missing.
Is it possible to get duplicates of these certificates?

Thanks

Jean-Marc

Hi, I have DSL40CR and want to use it as a preamp only, without connecting to a speaker, since I want to use its speaker with some other power amp. Can I safely use the DSL in standby-only mode? 

Tried to update but I just get the screen  

CODE : Restarting

Installing firmware - please wait

Restarting in boot loader mode...

and then it just hangs.  Do you guys have any idea what I'm not doing?

Does AC line power issues negatively affect Code series amps?

I have some problems with the wiring in my home (USA), one meter that I used indicates grounding issues. 

My home was built in the mid-70s so I suppose that it was built according to the code of that time period. One thing that I've noticed is that there are no grounding rods for the electric box. Current code requires that 2-6' rods be driven in the ground approx 6' apart connected to the power box to provide proper grounding for the electric service and safety for the home

I've said all of that  to ask how extreme noise on AC power lines affects a Marshall Code 50?  I can hear the noise thru my amps. I've tried using a Morley line filter plus a line filter that I built and neither helped.

There are times that my amp sounds like the signal is fluctuating, causing the volume to go high & low. I can't get the tone from that amp that I should be able to. There are other issues as well - I'm not satisfied with the performance of my Code 50 but I don't know that it's the amps fault

Thank You 

Keith Stone

aka GnLguy

Hey, 
I recenty tried to plug in my Code 25 to an M1 Macbook Air running MacOs14.5. The Mac on connection does recognise the amp being connected when it asks for a permission to be used as a USB accessory but when I try to setup the input for Code, the laptop does not show Code either in System Preferences or Garageband preferneces. I have tried two of the USB B cables to no avail. Kindly helo me out on where the issue might lie. Do i perhaps need to download a driver for the mac to recognise code as an input output device??

Thank you