Hello,
I purchased the Kilburn 2 from the official website a month ago. I usually keep it charged, so I didn't notice, but this time I used it until the battery was completely drained. After that, no matter how long I charge it, it won't turn on again. It seems like the battery is completely discharged. Is it normal for such a battery issue to occur after just one month? In this case, where should I request a repair?
Additionally, am I eligible for a warranty?
I've already contacted the official website, but I haven't received a response yet, and it's really frustrating 😢. I enjoyed using the speaker for a month, but now living without it feels so lifeless...
Thank you
The main problem of Marshall Code is a bad cabinet simulation. You may just turn off this button right on your amp and the sound will get better. Moreover, the compressor helped me as well. If you want to use distortion/overdrive, you may switch Pre FX from this pedal to compressor, but change your amp by means of the button on your amp to sone amp with OD letters in its name. And of course set Gain to it Max setting. You will get such a great but distorted/overdriven (depends on Gain) sound.
does anyone know if the first 4 characters of the cab serial number is the year of construction? and for my 1922 2x12 (potentially 2006) is this before of after manufacture changed from mdf to ply?
thanks Simon
I am not very good at sitting down and trying to dial in tones, so I rely a lot on presets developed by others. I am a huge phan of Trey Anastasio, and I am interested to know if anyone has found a way to come close to finding a preset line up replicating his tone. His sustain is always unreal, as is his control of dynamics. I am also trying to figure out what other gear I might be able to pair with my CODE 50 to try and replicate some of his tones, like adding a volume pedal, a wah, and a tube screamer.
So I have a brand new DSL100HR-U head and MX412a cab. when on the clean channel the proverbial wind noise comes threw. all mu other amp cab setups are working fine with the MX412a and it is not the cab. Everything from power conditioner to the cables are new as well. the only thing i havent done is swwitching out valves. Any thoughts or advice? Also to mention I'm a blind musician. and firstish timer amp troubleshooter
gdzie znajdę aplikację CODE EDITOR MARSCHALL? CHCĘ SCIĄGNĄĆ NA KOMPA
Hello,
I own a 50w vintage modern 2266 head and 425A cabinet and I am not sure how to connect the two, meaning not sure which ohm setting I should be using as well as understanding the difference between using the mono and stereo switch.
I tried reading the manual but could not find my answer.
Can someone assist? Thank you!
OK so I recently purchased a Digitech DROP pedal so I can drop tune without having to switch guitars while playing in rehearsal. I knew there wasn't a lot of info on pedals with the CODE so I bit the bullet and bought the pedal. It seems to work just fine drop tuning, and the octave feature sounds great. But I notice a bit of double-tracking on the G string or when you try to do bends- in other words, I am hearing the true note int eh background along with the drop tuned note. It tends to be distracting a bit, but it's liveable. I have the guitar going directly into the pedal and then a short cable from the pedal out into the line in on the amp. I don't know if this is a pedal issue or the fact I am using an edited bank with presets and processing the signal PRE input as opposed to an effects loop. I know I could probably try a dry signal preset and eliminate it, but I have no fuzz pedal to use in conjunction with it...O'm hoping I don't need to buy a dedicated pedalboard AGAIN and feed the pedals through to a dry amp preset in order to elimiante issues...especially if I have to play live. That's kind of why I went to the CODE 50 to begin with. Anyone have any input on this topic? It seems a bit lacking in teh community...
UPDATE:
Never mind- found out it was on my end. Mods can delete this post.
Hello!
After a lot of searching, I was able to find a used DSL 1w head. I experimented with some tube rolling, and in the process misplaced the screws for the metal backplace for the amp. Does anyone know what type of screw was used or where we could get replacements?
Is it possible to convert the parallel FX loop I have on the TSL 602 to serial. The parallel loop is rather unusable to me. For time based effects (chorus, delay) the parallel loop gives me too much unusable phased feedback, sounds like a helicopter. I am skilled with a soldering iron just need procedure on how to perform the mod. Thanks,
Morgan
Headphones worn 5 times, the gold R and L headband plugs are broken. I can't wear the headphones. Can I buy it somewhere and what is it professionally called?
I recently purchased a lightly used origin 20 combo. A very impressive amp! Until i plugged in an external cab. I used jack #2 for a single 8 ohm cab and it worked fine. However, the combo speaker will not come on. I tried jack #3 with the same result. After some internet research i discovered that this is a common issue and can be easily fixed.
Can anyone tell me what the issue is and how to fix it? This is a wonderful amp and i would lole to take full advantage of its options.
Hi,
Just purchased 1959HW, but I can see the settings behind the head. I usually encouter 240V main. Does this negatively impact the amp? Do I need to use Variac to dial down to 230V?
Thanks,
Murat
I bought a "scratch and dent" DSL40CR from Musician's Friend. When it arrived, it was awesome! The only issues it had were cosmetic and it was missing a footswitch.
Fast forward two weeks later and one day I'm playing and the volume drops and there is distortion even on the clean channel. I took off the back panel and saw that one of the power tubes was not lighting up. I contacted a local repair shop and they said it was likely the tubes. When I checked the bias the power tube that was working was around 35 and the one that was not was around 0. Since I thought the issue was likely related to the power tubes, I asked Musician's Friend if they would send me some replacement ones since I was withing th 45 day return period and they did.
Well, the new tubes arrived (Ruby EL34s) and I installed them and rebiased after leaving the amp on for several minutes. Both power tubes lit up, but I still have the same issue. I'm pretty bummed because I really liked this amp and now I'm worried it's just not built very well.
On a related note: the power tubes that came with my used DSL40CR were TAD EL34-STD Red Caps; are these are not the stock tubes that come with this unit? I'm wondering if maybe the previous owner had tried to mod this amp and did something to the circuit board or something?
One other thing: I plugged in my Orange Crush Mini into the Marshall and the speaker works just fine, sounds great even! So it's not an issue with a blown speaker, it's something with the electronics would be my guess.
Where is the serial # on the Emberton II?
I have tried them all to no avail on the warranty registration page.
i just want to find the full manual, but after i check all the web pages, i still couldn't find it. Help me please.
Hello folks,
I fiilishly messed up the input jack on my MG15CFX by tripping over the cable, and I'm not sure what the correct part to replace it with. I think I could do the soldering myself if necessary, although having the full assembly with the little curcuit board already attached would be best.
Meanwhile I'm tempted to remove the little plastic cover and see if I can bend the contacts back into shape. Has anyone ever tried that?
Hi ! The on/off neon switch on my new 2525c silver jubilee studio combo stays on in the off position it's very strange ? Everything else is working as it should ! Any ideas ? Thankyou.
Hello! As stated in the title when I run my emulated out into my SSL2 audio interface using the line level setting and the hi-z setting as recommended in the SSL2 manual, with the channel volume on the interface all the way down the meter is in the yellow and even on the clean channel on the head if I strum hard I get lots of fizz and crackle. This happens both on the 1W and .1W settings. The distortion channel of the amp sounds great, but the background crackle and fuzz comes through both on my monitoriing channel on the interface and my DAW. This happens on both input channels on my interface. Even if I deselect the Hi-z and line level inputs and turn the volume way up to where I can barely hear the guitar, I get crackle when I strum.
My questions are: is there something I can do to chill this really hot signal out? Or is something wrong with my amplifier and it requires service?
Further info: I bought this amp used from guitar center online and don't know it's actual age, although it looks and feels nearly brand new.
Thank you for your time!
