So I've had my DSL40C or a few months now, probably around 4 or 5 months, and just this week is has started making loud popping and crackling sounds when it's on and when it does the volume either gets quieter or louder. It has gotten worse and worse as the week went on. First it was just one pop per session but now it's almost unusable how much it pops and interferes with playing. I have no experience with electronics or amps or tubes or whatever so I don't know how to fix it or what the problem could be. What should I do to fix it? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I've noticed the outputs 2 & 3 differ, while the specifications on the speakers but the back of the cab (ORI212A) says x2 8ohms. Should I use the 16ohm output? And if not, which of the ohm outputs on the Origin 20H is the ideal one? The 16 ohm, the 8ohm or the 16x2 one?

I bought the Marshall Major II Bluetooth headphones almost two years ago and they were doing well and I was happy with them. Now there's a problem with the controll knob on the backside. So I mailed the support service and got excellent help from them. I mailed some https aka ms remoteconnect photos and conformation that I really have bought them. Now they want me to totally destroy them by cutting cables and snapping them in half before they can send new ones. I find this quite an unusual procedure and want to know if this is normal and if anyone had made similar expierienced and if this is trustworthy.

I just bought a DSL5CR, 
its "classic gain" channel has no gain at all, and one tube of the pre amp don't glow as the other, it glows, but not like the other pre amp tube.
Maybe there is a problem with it?

Kind regards,
Leonardo Bortolin

I just purchased a new DSL 40CR from an online auction site. The amp sounds great, but it is generating a very distinct crackling sound, primariy when I play E, F, or G chord on the low E string. There is a slight crackling sound on an A chord, but not as bad. This happens on both channels. I have change out cords and tried with mutltiple guitars, same results. Any idea what the problem might be?

Can someone tell me why the JMP1 that Geoff Whitehorn and many other guitarist used on guitar cds sounds so different from the 4 that I've recorded with? There is a warm fuzzy present quality on these recordings that the JMP1s I've tried don't have. All the ones I've tried sound the same, so I'm sure I don't have a faulty unit. It sounds great though an amp and cab. I've changed the tubes a few times, but it hasn't made any difference. Cheers. 

Meaning, can I download an interesting user-submitted pre-set to the CODE and then just reset the amp if I don't like it?

Thanks, in advance

I have a brand new Marshall DSL20 amp. It works fine without headphones but I get nothing out of my headphones when I plug them into the audio in/emulated out ports. while doing tinychat with friends. The headphones definitely work, and when I plug them in the amp makes a small popping sound but audio keeps just coming out the general amp instead. I just tried both because the other one didn’t work, And no, the headphone and mic jack are separate.

I've had this old 100w JMP MKII head for 15 years, but I don't know the exact year.  My tech said it had parts inside stamped from a bunch of years, oldest being 1979.

Serial on the plate front & back says S/A 03245M  and the amp name on the back plate is large script like so:

Any help?

I have a CODE 50, and I'm trying to download the presets that I have chosen in my profile, but I can't download them to the Amp, or to the Gateway app . Pls advise how can I do it.

Many thnx in advance!!

I've noticed that when switching channels, specifically from any other channel to the Clean channel in Green mode, I get an audible pop. Not like a firecracker going off, but definitely bothersome. If I set the Clean channel to Orange mode the pop does not happen. So, the pop only happens when switching to Clean/Green. This pop occurs when switching via the front panel buttons or my midi Voodoo Lab ground Control. 

I've had another JVM410H owner try to reproduce the issue, and they experienced the same pop when switching via the front panel buttons, but did not experience the pop when using the Marshall footswitch.

How can I correct this?

Hello :

What are waiting for a firmware update. I cannot wait so long.  It has been more than one year since the latest update.

Best regards

Hey 

So i have had this amp since 2016 and i play it a lot. mostly at home on the 5 watt mode. Today as i turned on my rig and put the amp on from stanby(around 20 min) i start playing and the volume starts fluctuating from loud to soft and back on its own. I investigted some patch cables in my pedal board to see if one was faulty and finally just went direct guitar to amp. The fluctuations kept happening.  eventually i turned it off and now am writing this! 

Now where i live the mains are at 220 and this amp is a US voltage amp so 110. I run it through a power transformer and its worked fine for the last 4 odd years. Never ever had this problem. 

Do you guys think a tube is busted? or something else is the culprit. Guitar pots are fine no problem there. the cable and input are all fine. It has to be the amp. Do i need to change out the tubes, have these ones worn out or do you think its my electricity thats irregular? 

I connect the head into 2 different 'cabinets' basically 2 combo amps have that im connecting to the speakers of directly. both are at 8 ohm. again, ive run this setup and play almost everyday and this volume thing has never happened. 

Any help is much appreciated! 

Hi, I have Marshall Mid A.N.C. Тo turn on, I need to hold the button for 8 seconds - is this normal? The instructions say-3 seconds!

 Hello I want to exchange valves in my Origin 20h, ordered some aol login from Tube Amp Doctor. After I exchange them do I have to rebias it? Is there a manual for rebiasing? I wasn't able to find anything which would give me even slight bit of a hint about it .

thanks

When I connect my Code 50 to my PC via USB, it only plays the left audio of music but not the right audio. This problem does not persist when connected via Bluetooth to my phone.

I just bought a 100h, honestly without doing any research, wich is my bad. After learning they can only be used with CODE cabs I was a bit suprised, but whatever, one can never have too many stacks. Unfortunately after spending hours searching every music site I know, and a couple new ones I found, it seems there are literally none to be found. This leaves me with a new toy that I can't play with, rather frustrating to say the least. Any Ideas anyone??                                                                              Thanks, John M

People here have talked about a "mushy" sound on these amps. It happened to me, at some point, with my DSL 20 head. Fortunately, I also have a DSL20 combo. So I hooked up the combo to the pedalboard and the cab. Unplugged the amp's speaker, and the difference was night and day. I also had a DSL100H, I kept for a friend, same problem. I told him it needed serviced, he didn't listen. I just got done playing one, that was working correctly, at a Guitar Center. It was aggressive, and brutal, the way it should be! Consistent and tight.

What I found on a forum, and what I suspected, was a small capacitor, in the preamp had failed, in C21,C22, position, if I remember correctly. Sorry, but these are made in Vietnam...And that's what you get...Instead of sending my tech guy on a fishing expedition, I'll dump it off somewhere...Maybe, I will get the old JMP I always wanted... DON'T EXPECT THESE AMPS TO LAST,  BECAUSE THEY WON'T! 

Hello!

I have an amplifier Code 25,

Tried to find any specification of the installed speaker Y1025J - 02.

The main question for me is:

1) Is the Code25 has the  full-range (20-20000Hz)frequency speaker or it a guitar speaker (70-7000Hz)? 

2) Can I replace the installed speaker with full-range frequencies (20-20 000Hz) speaker or only the option is do the replacement with specific (I meant for the guitars only)  guitar speaker? 

I see that is 25w 4ohm speaker, but nothing else to find equivalent for upgrade.

My thoughts are about any speakers, becouse the Code is modeling amplifier and probably the amplifier must produced all frequencies becouse of it. That why I am looking about extra spec information of Code processor working with all audio frequencies and send it to speaker or speaker must be specific as a guutar speaker and cut some unneeded frequencies on speaker level. 

Thank you. 

I had the opportunity to play on a Spark amp this weekend. They have a really nice app. Do you have any plans on updating your mobile app with more features like Smart Jam?