What setting do you use to get the Code 50 to act as a amplifier/speaker with no modeled effects?
Yesterday, I went to my local guitar shop and purchased a Code 100 2x12 Combo and it came with a two-way footswitch. I assumed it would work with it considering I knew it came with a footswitch. However, the footswitch doesnt do much. The effects side does nothing to my amp and when I press the Normal / OD side twice, it will change my amp preset in reverse. For example, if I'm using my JCM 800 tone and I press the Normal / OD button twice, it will go to preset 99. Did they give me the wrong footswitch? Was I supposed to receive the Code programmable footswitch instead and the retail clerk didn't know what he was doing? Or is there a way to program the two way footswitch so it actually can be used effectively rather than a paperweight with a long cable on it? Please let me know as this has been frustrating for me. I play live shows and have shows coming up and can't afford to not have a footswitch.
can i use a bass guitar with the code 50 and what is the best preset?
I just want to check with fellow CODE users if they are facing the same issues that I am dealing with.
Biggest (and most annoying) issue is, it's a matter of luck connecting the CODE through USB. 2 times out of 10 my pc recognizes the amp the first time I plug it in. Mostly it gives an error that device is not connected properly or not recognized by windows. So I end up unplugging and plugging again until (if ever) it's been recognized. (Using windows 8.1 btw) Then suddenly in the middle of a recording session my DAW starts to drag like if I am running on a PC Pentium 600. (It's running on a 3000$ alienware) This is a sign that somehow CODE get disconnected itself. Now you have only option left: Restart the PC and start all over again.
So far I have checked with different USB cables, and I am using the shortest ones as possible as I can. (less than 80 cm.) I can't check with another pc since I don't have another one, but I am running Yamaha THR-10 smoothly, without any problems at all!
So I don't believe that there's an issue with my pc. And speaking of THR, why the hell CODE doesn't have it's dedicated USB drivers. I am kind of sure that the issue I am facing is all about the ASIO drivers that we are left with as an only option.
Second issue is, maybe only 1 out of 20 times I am able to get any presets from web site. Even if it looks like CODE is connected in the Device Manager, and the Chrome (or Opera) says MIDI is connected, I can't send any presets to the amp. After a few tries, this ends up with web browsers got frozen and only option is again: restart your pc!
I really would like to hear from people who are facing similar issues and how they could get over with it. (if they ever could)
And hopefully the only answer I receive from Marshall team is not going to be: "Thanks for your feedback, we will pass this to our technical team"
Hello - I have the Marshall DSL1CR and and would like to use the emulated out with headphones. However, when I plug in my headphones, sound still comes out of of the speaker. Am I supposed to disconnect the speaker jack (I wanted to confirm this before trying as I didn't want to damage the amplifier). Any help with instructions on how to use this amp with headphones for silent practice would be very helpful. Thanks!
I have a set of Minor II Bluetooth headphones and they’ve worked great up until I switched from an Android phone to an iPhone. I like to have them connected to my phone and also my laptop at the same time whilst working. The problem is since I’ve been using the iPhone, I keep hearing the short noise as if the headphones have just connected to a device over and over again. Every minute or so, the sound dips and I hear that noise. It’s extremely annoying and I end up having to disconnect from the phone to stop it. Does anyone know how this could be fixed?
I hope someone can please help me here.
I have tried to use various methods in connecting my code 25 via USB to my windows 10 with no luck.
Can someone please tell me how I can do this because I just purchased the amp a week ago for primarly recording and I cannot get it to work.
It played my track out of the code speaker for a moment but thats all. I continue to get errors from windows saying that the USB is not recognized,
I have ASIO drivers installed and use reaper as a recording interface.
Please help! I would be much appreaciative !!!
I have had my amp JCM 2000 TSL 122 combo for a few years. I used it occasionally when I first acquired it (around 2008) and then fairly regularly in a band for about a year in 2009/20010. It was then put in my wardrobe and came out to use ocaasionally for a couple of gigs and then went back in the wardrobe until earlier this year.
In 2016 I have gotten together with some friends to form a new covers band and we have rehearsed at pretty big rehearsal room volume with live drums etc. at an average of 2 rehearsals a month since March.
Today, I started to set my amp up as usual - plugged in and turned on with standby. Took off stanby with all 3 channel gains and volumes at ZERO. 1st channel (Clean) some gain + some volume (uaual position around 2 and a bit....rarely get it to 3, haha!) and it made all the usual signs of working well and giving me a great clean sound.
Turned to the other guitarist for a quick conversation about pics he bought on e-bay and I found my volume dropped!!??!!
I checked leads, connections, another guitar, but my Marshall is not doing what it has been doing. Our other guitarist put his guitar through it and it needed almost full gain and full volume on each channel to get any volume on the output.
I turned ot off and used an amp that the rehearsal studio had available. Effects and leads all good, so the issue is definitely the amp.
Am I experiencing a dead valve, or set of valves, or could it be something more sinister? This is my first valve amp and appreciate that these things are much more sucsceptible to issues and need much more maintenance than their solid state counterparts.
Any advice on this would be much appreciated. I have searched the issue and found that there are some sites with negative thoughts towards the JCM 200 series and the TSL 122 in particular with biasing issues etc., but what I am reading is going over my head a little, but looks quite damning???
Thanks for any help,
I've got a (not very big) problem with recordnig music via USB. I use only clean sound, typical settings for my guitar equipped with 2x Wilkinson WVC humbuckers are:
preamp - DSL, gain - 2.0 (increasing gain over 2.5 makes sound NOT as clean, as I want it to be), volume - 10, B/M/T - 7/10/5, noise gate - 0.5
power amp - American, presence - 2, resonance - 6
I tried Audacity and Presonus Studio One, and in both cases recording level is about -20dB. Of course I can normalize volume in post processing to let's say -3dB and I still have quite satisfactory quality, but I loose this 17dB of signal/noise ratio.
Any suggestion how to increase USB output level?
My first post here, so apologies if I'm out of line on Forum protocol! I just bought a used MG250DFX used on Reverb. It's my first Marshall after a lifetime of dreaming of having one!
Where could one find the original owners manual if there is one for download, as well as find out what type of speakers came with the original unit?
I've noticed that there is rattling/jangling coming from the amp (not the speaker) when playing notes between low A and C and their respective octaves above. It sounds like it is coming from the EL34 valves - is this due to the way that they are mounted without spring dampers? They have not gone microphonic as far as I can tell, and are otherwise performing as expected, so I feel this is more a mechanical issue with the chassis/mounting, or it's just an undesirable characteristic of the valves themselves. What I'd ideally like to know is, do all Origin 20Cs do this or is this the first anyone has heard about this?
I've removed every external variable there could be, moving the amp to another location and isolating it from floor vibrations in the studio. I've taken the 'amp' out of the cabinet so that I could lightly tap the valves, and check the screws around the supports are not loose. You can generate the rattle (or very similar) just by tapping lightly with the handle of a screwdriver, on both valves. This is what I was expecting if it was just physical vibrations from the speaker causing them to rattle in sypmathy. The rattling sound does not get amplified, so it's not in the audio path.
It's enough to be offputting when tracking/practicing in the studio unless pushing out really high volume so that you can only hear the guitar. I play fairly clean a lot of the time so it is more obvious under those conditions.
Would really appreciate some advice. If the answer is, "It's the same for all and there's not much that can be done..." then ok, I just need to know. That said, I spotted there was some sort of similar issue perhaps on Class 5 amps that a kit was developed for to resolve? I may have misunderstood though.
If there is any further mechanical troubleshooting to be done then please let me know. I wouldn't want to void the warranty status if possible. For what it's worth, I'm a systems and support engineer for a large format mixing console company, so I'm competent enough to poke around as required... just figured someone may have alreday solved this one before I carry on!
Hello, I've noticed that the firmware update is only available for windows not mac. Is there any alternative way mac users can update? Or will this be an option in the future?
So as the name suggest i have connection problems. I had some other problems with phone connection also but that was solved with a hard reset of the headphones. But it didn't solve the problems with my laptop. So the headphones do connect to the pc and work fine but after an hour of use the make a loud beep sounds and turn off for no reason. If i turn them on again they instantly connect back to the laptop and continue working like before. Is there a program or drivers installer for the windows to fix this? Becouse i dont want to change my brand new headphones and wait for the new pair?
I've had a DSL40c for a year or two, and it worked fine until a few months ago. While playing, the sound cut out and there was a slight burning smell. I replaced all tubes and pre amps and it worked fine in testing, but then did the same thing when I got it home. Repair guy thought it was a pre amp issue so changed those out again. It worked fine in testing, and then did the same thing again when we got it home. This time when we turned it back on, it would work, but sound would go up and down sporatically with some popping and crackling. Replaced the tubes again, and it worked fine for an hour. Then the sound cut out, and we noticed it would not switch channels. After turning it off and letting it cool down, we turned it on again and it worked fine and channels would change. I'm not sure what to do at this point. My weekend routine of dropping the amp off and then getting it back (with high-hopes) has gotten old. The problems have occurred while plugged straight into the guitar, as well as through a pedal board. Also, the problems have occurred via multiple power sources in different locations (i.e. not always through the same wall socket).
Thanks for your help
THIS ISSUE IS STILL ACTUAL !!! THE MASTER VOLUME ADJUSTMENT IS NOT LINEAR !!! PLEASE MAKE A FIRMWARE UPDATE TO SOLVE THAT !!!
I have a DSL40C and bought a used 90012 model footswitch. Turns out that switch is meant for the newer DSL40CR. It is tip and ring with two sleeves for the two buttons, but the channel button does nothing. When plugged in the channel button on the amp no longer works, yet the footswitch button does not change the channel either.xvideos.onl/
If you pull the footswitch half way out it causes a channel change.xnxx.onl/
So the question is, does the amp have an issue or is this footswitch just not compatible? It's a two button, tip and ring with two sleeves so in my mind it should work...chaturbate.onl/
Some internet sloothing leads me to a model P802 footswitch that was the one for the DSL40C amp but it seems like the same switch to me...
i switch through my presets with the Marshall PEDL-91009, however, this pedalboard only has 3 switches and a bank switch, however i would like to have a pedalboard with more than 3 preset switch button for faster recall ... is there a solution (maybe via MIDI) , or a compatible footswitch that i am unaware of?
Hello Group! I am about to receive my new Marshall Origin 50 watt head on Monday (March 5th). I'm excited as hell! I was looking for a 50 watt platform to go through my hand made Tweed 1X12 cab with a EVM12L that I built three years ago. I just had a bad expierience buying a Fender Bandmaster VM with a blown digital effects board. The repair facility could not obtain this part from anywhere. I wound up returning it to Reverb.com and was out all the repair money, two 5 hour round trips and $55 to ship it back. I was really devistated until (by accident) I stumbled onto this Origin series amp. I owned a few Marshalls in my day but this one really caught my eye. My question to you guys is this; normally amps come through with pretty basic tubes. I have no idea what the Origin comes with as far as stock tubes. Being the perfectionist that I am and the gear freak I've always been, I'm already wanting to upgrade the 12AX7's (EC83s) and the EL34s. Any suggestions as to a good upgrade or are the stock tubes pretty good? Thanks guys (and gals)
I’ve just bought a Code 25 with footswitch and have just started to look at the presets. As far as I can see each amp sound corresponds to a number - for example Bluesbreaker Reverb is assigned to #44. Is there a way or re-assigning this e.g. to #1 ? I’d like to be able access some of the presets easily rather than having to scroll through all of the numbers.
Apologies if this has already been asked on the forum
Any plans to release a Windows desktop app for managing presets via USB connection? I'm not an Android or iPhone user. Editing via amp panel is ok, but somewhat tedious.